‘There was something of interest around every corner in Lviv. One day, we’ll go back’

From western Ukraine’s cradle of culture to Geneva, Venice and Gdansk, these are the European cities that dazzle in winter

DOUGHNUTS IN GDANSK

I travelled with my wife and her parents to Gdansk, in Poland, in February. The weather was chilly and crisp: perfect for strolling and dipping in and out of medieval buildings dating from the time of Danzig’s great wealth as a member of the Hanseatic League. From the church towers, we could spy the dockyards that made Solidarity famous; the European Solidarity Centre and the Second World War museums were worldclass. We dined well and cheaply at Fino, and stayed like kings at the Hilton, with its rooftop pool, for £70 a night. The highlight? Delicious doughnuts offered to us at every turn on Fat Tuesday, before Lent began. Patrick Ford, Bath

GENEVA JET SET

Somehow, I imagined Geneva to be a boring city full of bankers, businessmen and bureaucracy. On arrival there for work, I found myself with free time to explore and all my preconceptions vanished like snow in the sun. I spent a lively, entertaining evening wandering the back streets – more reminiscent of a provincial French town than a finance empire – and met welcoming characters imbibing in bars into the small hours. Emerging at dawn into the unwelcome brightness, I found myself on the shores of the immense Lake Geneva, with Mont Blanc and the Alps as a backdrop. The Jet d’Eau sent a rainbowcoloured plume into the blue sky. George Bailey, Dorset

VENETIAN NIGHTS

We visited Venice in November and stayed at a small boutique hotel. At 4am, 5am and 6am, there was a lot of noise outside our window. Mystified, we asked if we could breakfast outside to learn the cause. A bemused waitress brushed off the frost and laid the table. It turned out that November 21 is the Feast of the Madonna della Salute, which includes the building of a bridge across the Grand Canal and a service on the hour, every hour. We marvelled at the giant jars of Nutella, and the blue sky following the mist over the lagoon. We shared a toasted sandwich at Caffè Florian, and later dined on mutton stew at Bistrot de Venise. Venice in winter? Yes, please. Lorna Matthews-Keel, Wiltshire

WINTER WARMER

My in-laws used to live in littleknown Setubal, on the Portuguese coast, so it was a pleasure to leave freezing North Yorkshire in December and go to visit them. As I spoke a little Spanish, I thought I could get by in Portuguese, but no such luck – it really is a totally different language.

Nevertheless, the area has plenty of beautifully sunny days in winter, temperatures are mild and there is lots to do, from hiking through spectacular landscapes to visiting places such as the Reserva Natural do Estuario do Sado.

The seafood restaurants are much cheaper than they are in summer, and you can still sample the local speciality: fried cuttlefish. The occasional dip in the sea is even a possibility.

Mark Milbank, Dorset

MAGICAL MAASTRICHT

We have just returned from Maastricht, in the Netherlands, a stunning city for a winter break. It has a delightful old town; arcades for exploring; some stunning architecture; the River Meuse and its bridges; plus lots of intriguing shops and a wonderful Christmas market. Decorations throughout the city added sparkle to our festive break.

Sipping hot chocolate or glühwein while watching the snowflakes fall over the city is a mesmerising and relaxing way to spend a few days. We had travelled by car (taking the Eurotunnel) and were able to visit Abbey Val-Dieu, a delightful monastery with a brewery and a cheese-making business as well as a restaurant. There was also a trip to Alden Biesen, a magnificent 16thcentury castle with beautiful grounds open to the public and used as a conference centre and for weddings. Anne Hayward, Cardiff

A TALE OF TWO PRAGUES

It was early February, and our first impression – as we trod the wet pavements of Prague on a dank, dark afternoon – was that the huge baroque buildings looming over us felt almost menacing. However, the city’s mood changed dramatically the next day, after an overnight snowstorm transformed it into a winter wonderland. The fairy-tale gothic spires, turrets and finials of the castle, cathedral and churches sparkled, while the medieval roofs shone pristine white against a clear blue sky.

Sitting in an open-air café, warming ourselves with hot drinks, we watched fascinated by the automated movements of the Twelve Apostles “parading” around the glistening gold mechanisms of the nearby Astronomical Clock. We pondered what a difference a day makes, transforming Prague with a covering of the white stuff.

Margaret Reed, Wiltshire

i ‘It was a magical time to explore’: the Latin Cathedral, wreathed in snow, was a highlight of one reader’s visit in a more peaceful 2018*