The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
FURTHER AFIELD
Riemvasmaak Hot Springs, Northern Cape, South Africa
The Riemvasmaak community was the first to return to its land when Nelson Mandela was inaugurated as South Africa’s president and the restitution project was initiated in 1994. Right up by the Namibian border, this is a remote, rugged, mountainous desert.
About 40 miles from the small Northern Cape town of Kakamas, north of the Augrabies Falls, is a deep ravine where ancient volcanic activity heats the spring water. This is a part of South Africa that many visitors never reach, so it is a just reward for the intrepid traveller. Hikes in the canyon where antelope and baboon wander the rocky lunar-like landscape can be followed by muscle-soothing soaks in the therapeutic waters. From £1 pp (00 27 73 383 8812; riemvasmaak.co.za). Stay at Kameeldoring
(00 27 73 182 9416; kameeldoring camping.co.za), which offers tented chalets from £55
Dunton Hot Springs, Colorado, United States
For proper, remote, out-there seclusion, this ghost town sits in the middle of a 1,600-acre ranch in the foothills of Colorado’s San Juan mountains. The abandoned 19th-century mining village was reimagined in the 1990s as a wildly smart retreat, mainlining wholesome outdoorsy activities – hiking, trout fishing, river rafting, rock climbing, horse riding. All of those are a precursor to the main event: soaking in one of the five natural hot springs on the property. Make a beeline for the piping hot, mineral-rich pool in the restored bathhouse with its huge wall of windows and dense woodland views beyond. Doubles from £838, full board, including hot springs access (00 1 866 976 4397; duntondestinations.com)
Termas Geométricas, Pucón, Chile
Such is the power of the surrounding volcanoes that occasionally a few of the slate-lined pools at Termas Geométricas are closed off because the water gets too hot to bathe in. Fortunately there are 17 to choose from, each different, some as large as a swimming pool, others barely big enough for a lone plunge. Linking them all through the forest ravine is a cherry red angular walkway that pops against the backdrop of lush mosses and ferns. The place feels mystical with its permanent haze of mist from the waterfalls and steam flowing off the thermal springs, and the unfaltering acoustics of the bubbling water. Sessions from £38pp (termasgeometricas.cl). Stay at Das Dorf, which offers doubles from £179 (00 56 971285288; dasdorf.cl)
KAI Yufuin, Kyushu, Japan
With natural geothermal water bubbling under the ground all the way from Hokkaido in the north to Okinawa and the Southwest islands, it is not surprising that this is an intrinsic part of the culture in Japan. Onsens – the bathhouses set around the hot springs – are found in almost every village and town. This is the focus of hotel group KAI, whose new ryokan in the Ōita Prefecture revolves around a moody, black panelled indoor bathhouse by revered architect Kengo Kuma. The spaces may look highly contemporary but they are equally respectful of traditional architecture with bamboo flooring, washi paper screens and tatami grass chairs. Onsen limited to hotel guests – doubles from £191, including breakfast, dinner and spa access (00 81 50 3134 8096; hoshinoresorts.com)
Alba Thermal Springs, Melbourne, Australia
Mornington Peninsula is perhaps best known as Melbourne’s weekender, where city dwellers flock to the vineyards and beaches. But it has wellness clout too thanks to the hot springs discovered bubbling away in the late 1970s. Fast forward to today and there are plenty of spas to access them, but the newest, Alba, is the most architecturally impressive. Vast raw concrete walls curve around sunken courtyards and 31 geothermal sulphur and magnesium-enriched pools and water features are all linked by winding pathways. It is minimal and modern with satisfyingly sharp and sophisticated design, scruffed up by silvery saltbush and tea tree shrubs. Day access to the geothermal pools, sauna and steam room from £48pp (00 61 3 5985 0900; albathermalsprings.com.au). Stay at Jackalope, which offers doubles from £330 (00 61 3 5931 2500; jackalopehotels.com)
Aro Hā Wellness Retreat, Glenorchy, New Zealand
The epic scale of the surroundings at eco-wellness retreat Aro Ha – the towering craggy Humboldt mountain range, the stillness of Lake Wakatipu, the huge skies – is humbling. Connecting with nature is one of the main goals, which means exhilarating hikes, yoga, meditation and Pilates – but also sitting back in a moment of pause and appreciating the solitude. In the hydrotherapy spa, contrast therapy is the focus; warming up, cooling down, then warming up again. The traditional sauna has 180-degree views of the lake below, as does the magnificent outdoor hot tub. Massages are scheduled daily and all food is vegan and raw. Soothing, spirit-lifting stuff. Six-day retreats are available from £3,416pp, all inclusive (00 64 3 442 7011; aro-ha.com)