Australia’s most expensive city – on a budget

Sarah Rodrigues reveals how to make the most of Sydney without breaking the bank

Sydney’s exorbitant cost of living might have exiled many of its locals, but it has done little to stop eager British tourists flocking to the Emerald City – particularly during Australia’s balmy summer months, meaning now. And who can blame them? It may be one of the most expensive cities in the world, but it is also one of the most beautiful (trust me: my “commute” was once a ferry ride across that glistening harbour).

And while a slice of Sydney summer can come with a hefty price tag, it doesn’t have to. With a little insider know-how, swapping the British winter for a holiday in the Harbour City needn’t cost a fortune. Little can be done about airfares – flying half-way round the world is always going to set you back a bit – but the same needn’t be said of on-the-ground costs. Not all attractions demand a fee, and you can often get a far better feel for the city by thinking outside the box and sidestepping its big-ticket sights.

Beaches are almost too obvious to mention, yet what would an article about Sydney be without them? There are over one hundred of these sandy sweeps, ranging from the vast threemile stretch of Lady Robinson’s in Rockdale, to Turimeta near Manly, so diminutive it vanishes at high tide. In Sydney, there is no better way to spend your time than basking and bathing; as a bonus, your biggest outlay is likely to be sunscreen. If waves and surfers aren’t your thing, head to one of Sydney’s ocean pools: most are part of the beach, and free; others, such as the Bondi Icebergs, charge an entry fee – though AU$9-10 (£4-5) is a small price to pay for a day’s access to an iconic (and almost century-old) site.

The Icebergs has another allure, however, and that is the venue under which its tides swell and foam. A threecourse meal at the Dining Room (idrb. com) is pricey at AU$155/£80 – so treat yourself to a cocktail there, then head downstairs to the Bistro which has the same incredible views and a more affordable menu.

This is also the starting point for the four-mile clifftop walk to Coogee – a stretch worth tackling simply for the views and the people-watching, but which takes on added wow-factor each spring, when the free outdoors exhibition Sculpture by the Sea takes over (sculpturebythesea.com).

Naturally, a Sydney stay demands time on and around the Harbour, surrounded by its waters; its “coathanger” of a bridge; and the gleaming, shell-like curves of its Opera House. And while these are undeniably the city’s supermodels, exploring them on a budget needn’t relegate you to a day of only strolling and snapping. A night at the Opera? General tickets cost from AU$79/£41 but there are special offers granting access to some performances (plus dinner and a drink at a harbourside restaurant) for AU$99/£52 (opera. org.au). The adjacent Botanic Gardens are also free for the general public to wander, and if you loiter near “The Con” (the Sydney Conservatorium of Music), you will likely be treated to the sounds of future musical luminaries.

A harbour cruise from nearby Circular Quay will set you back around AU$65/£34, but hopping on a green and yellow ferry provides exactly the same views for far less (AU$3.20/£1.60). While onboard, be sure to direct your gaze smugly up at the tiny climbing figures inching across the arch of the Harbour Bridge: they have paid upwards of AU$150/£78 for the privilege. Give them a wave from the ferry, then disembark and walk for free across the Bridge’s pedestrian section at your leisure. Next, head for Pylon Lookout – yes, you will need to climb just over 200 steps to reach the top, but you will be rewarded with 360-degree views over the harbour and access to the onsite museum, all for just AU$24.95/£13 (pylonlookout.com.au).

On which note: yes, the views from Sydney Tower – the city’s highest vantage point, punctuating the skyline with its distinctive yellow, space-age structure – are pretty grand (sydneytowereye.com.au), but for the price of adult admission (AU$35/£18), you could instead drink two glasses of Yarra Valley prosecco at the Shangri-La’s 36th-floor Blu Bar, from which the views of the harbour are magical (and free).

Many of Sydney’s museums and galleries are also free to enter, including the Museum of Contemporary Art with its harbourside setting (mca.com.au), and the Art Gallery of New South Wales (artgallery.nsw.gov.au), where the permanent collection showcases early colonial works and First Nations art.

But a holiday in Sydney isn’t all about ticking off the attractions: you have to eat, too. In a city so renowned for its cuisine, dining out is a serious business – but a budget approach needn’t mean missing out. Try cheap, tasty dumplings at Chinese Noodle House (chinesenoodlerestaurant.business.site); legendary

The Moxy (marriott.com) has doubles from AU$176/£91 per night.

For more information on Sydney, see Destination NSW (destination nsw.com.au)

Italian dishes at Bill and Toni’s (billandtonis.com.au); rice paper rolls at VN Streetfoods (vnstreetfoods.com. au); or authentic Indian cuisine at Chatkazz in Harris Park (chatkazz. com.au). Use the money saved for a one-off splurge at a big-name restaurant such as Quay (quay.com.au) or Bennelong (bennelong.com.au).

Granted, not all of these locations are central, but to visit Sydney and remain solely within the coo-ee of the harbour would be a mistake: this city’s pulse beats strongly, even at a distance from its famed heart.

Shopaholics can trawl the outlet stores in Homebush (homebush.dfo. com.au) or scour the suburban charity shops for designer cast-offs, while walkers should head for the bushland and coastal trails which wind, enticingly, through Ku-ring-gai National Park, to the north, and Royal National Park, in the south.

Do not, by any means, miss a visit to the delightful suburb of Manly with its buzzing Corso strip – but don’t make this your sole Northern Beaches excursion. Continue along the 22-mile-long Northern Beaches Coast Walk towards Palm Beach, and discover lesser-visited beachy suburbs such as North Curl Curl and Narrabeen. Here – against a backdrop of public artwork, uncrowded sands and local beachside cafés – the bold, beautiful heart of Sydney shines brightest. And you can’t put a price on that.

For the price of entry to Sydney Tower, you could drink prosecco at Blu Bar and enjoy magical views

g In their wake: forget the traditional harbour cruise and take the ferry from Circular Quay for a fraction of the price

i Sea too rough? Swim at the Bondi Icebergs ocean pool instead for an entry fee of less than £5

g Square deal: admission to the Art Gallery of New South Wales is free