The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
See Italy’s diverse regions on a Grand Tour afloat
Forget road trips and rail. A cruise is the best way to take in several parts of this varied country, says Steve Newman – and you don’t even need to repack
Since the days of the Grand Tour, Italy – with its glorious, indulgent way of life – has been a favourite haunt of British travellers. But make no mistake: this is not simply one destination. Rather, it is a series of distinct regions, each with its own dialect, architecture, cuisine and fierce regional pride, bound together by a love of tradition, family values and good living. And it is this diversity that makes a cruise so uniquely suited to its exploration, opening up the chance to dip in and out of the regions and taste their contrasting delights.
Compare, for example, the glorious Amalfi Coast; the offshore islands of Sardinia and Sicily; and the grandeur of Rome and Ravenna – the splendid extremes of Italy – and you will appreciate her all the more. The country’s southern tip, home to Puglia and Calabria (where locals still speak a dialect of ancient Greek) combines well with Venice, while a voyage along the River Po takes you deep into the Italian heartland, where splendid walled Renaissance cities and the fashion houses of Milan sit side by side.
Go even further and you will find yourself standing beneath Juliet’s balcony in Verona – and then, just a few days later, walking amid the ruins of Arab palaces in Messina. After all, variety is the spice of life – and the adage applies perfectly to la dolce vita. Here’s how to make the most of it.
Volcanic islands
Explore the Italian coast in style. On Lipari – one of the seven volcanic Aeolian Islands, just off the north coast of Sicily – climb the narrow streets to the medieval castello, then sail past sister isle Stromboli, watching the sky for volcanic fireworks.
Messina is the gateway to Sicily – try the famous (and indulgent) mezza con panna al caffè, a half glass of coffee-flavoured granita and cream – while a stop in Amalfi offers a visit to nearby Positano, said to be the most beautiful town in the Mediterranean.
Next, Sorrento’s city walls, capped with its magical gardens, rise straight out of the sea. In the Pontine islands, you will pay a visit to lovely Ponza town, still rarely visited by tourists. This means you are likely to enjoy its pretty streets and harbour in relative peace and quiet.
Star Clippers (01473 242666; starclippers.co.uk) offers the seven-night Amalfi and Sicily cruise aboard the 166-guest Star Flyer from £1,660pp, sailing round trip from Civitavecchia on August 24 2024 to Lipari,
Messina, Amalfi, Sorrento and Ponza.
There is so much more to Venice than St Mark’s Square: this cruise sails the Venice lagoon and outer islands, overnighting in palatial hotels and exploring small fishing communities that see few tourists. But you won’t miss out on the classics. The itinerary includes private visits to St Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace, plus a villa wine tasting and excursions to a gondola yard, a Murano glassblowing centre and to Rialto market with the ship’s chef who picks up fresh seafood to serve on board at lunch. This immersive cruise allows you to explore the city and its islands properly, from what is effectively a small luxury floating boutique hotel.
Uniworld (0808 168 9231; uniworld. com) offers the seven-night Venice and the Jewels of Veneto cruise aboard the 126-guest SS La Venezia, sailing from Venice and calling at Burano and Chioggia, Mazzorbo, Torcello, Padua and Vicenza. It costs from £3,889 per person, departing May-October 2024.
The island of Sardinia is the most rustic part of Italy. On this cruise, ports of call include Alghero (where the street signs reveal the region’s Catalan heritage) and Porto Cervo (the trendiest hangout in the Costa Smeralda, its harbour overflowing with luxury yachts).
From Sardinia, it is on to the city of Siena – which still looks much as it did in the 14th century – and then north to the Cinque Terre. Here, you will travel by train on a full-day excursion to absorb the scenery and the spectacular, colourful fishing villages along the Italian Riviera. Tour the island of Elba, where Napoleon spent his first exile, then explore Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating and best-preserved medieval cities, as well as the architectural beauty of Florence.
CroisiEurope (001 800 768 7232; croisieuroperivercruises.com) offers the seven-night La Dolce Vita Trip Along the Italian Coastline cruise aboard the 130-guest La Belle des Océans, sailing round trip from Nice to Livorno, Portoferraio, Alghero, Porto Cervo, Porto Santo Stefano and La Spezia. It costs from £2,755 per person, departing May 24, July 12 and August 16 2024.
A cruise along the valley of the River Po takes you deep into the heart of medieval Italy – and there is a musical element, too, designed to appeal specifically to lovers of Italian opera. The cruise even includes front-of-stalls seats at the magnificent Roman amphitheatre, Arena di Verona, for a performance of Verdi’s Aida, as well as various opera-themed excursions.
It’s not all about opera, though. The sailing also includes a guided tour of Venice, a visit to the Teatro La Fenice, a cruise to the colourful town of Chioggia – often referred to as Venice without the tourists – and a hosted dinner with the countess of the 17th-century Villa Ca’Zen (where Lord Byron wrote some of his best poetry). You will also visit the Renaissance cities of Ferrara and Mantua, designated World Heritage Sites for their enduring beauty and cultural importance.
European Waterways (01753 598555; europeanwaterways.com) offers the six-night Classic Italy cruise aboard the 20-guest La Bella Vita, sailing from Venice to Chioggia, Ferrara and Villa. It costs from £4,500 per person, departing on August 16 2024.
This cruise allows you to sail around the “boot” of Italy. It includes a stop at Crotone in Calabria, founded in 710 BC as the Greek colony of Kroton, where you can explore ancient ruins and visit Le Castella, a fortified island village. Situated at the “heel”, Bari is filled with romantic honey-toned houses and Romanesque and baroque churches, while Alberobello hosts a forest of tiny conical trulli. Next is Naples, sitting at the foot of towering Vesuvius, from which there are visits to Pompeii and Herculaneum. Sicily’s Messina, meanwhile, offers Greek and Roman treasures, and a trip to Taormina boasts views of Mount Etna.
Viking (0800 298 97 00; vikingcruises. co.uk) offers the seven-night Italian Sojourn aboard the 930-guest Viking Jupiter, sailing from Civitavecchia to Naples, Messina, Crotone, Bari, Sibenik and Venice. It costs from £2,790pp, departing August 4 2024.
Medieval mosaics
Ravenna is famous for its mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries, found in its cathedrals, palaces and public buildings. Meanwhile, the old world city of Trieste – perched on the Adriatic Sea – is a mixture of Latin, Slavic and Germanic cultures. This cruise sails southwards along the Croatian coast, visiting Dubrovnik before calling at Brindisi – a patchwork of medieval streets with precious interiors. Just 35 miles down the coast from Naples, Salerno has plenty of excellent vantage points from which to soak up views of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Celebrity Cruises (0344 492043; celebritycruises.com) offers the 10-night Best of Italy and Croatia cruise aboard the 2,000-guest Celebrity Constellation from £884pp. Departs Ravenna on August 4 2024.