The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
You’ve done Sicily – now discover its island neighbours
Vulcano, Stromboli, Pantelleria, Salina, Lampedusa… the names are seductive enough but just wait until you get there, says Rebecca Winke
Sicily’s most famous neighbouring archipelago – the Unesco-protected Aeolian Islands – extends off the northern Sicilian coast in a Y-shaped arc, each of its seven small islands (and scattering of islets) bursting with its own distinct character, yet still largely undiscovered by the tourist masses.
But it is not all about the Aeolians. There is also beautiful Pantelleria – known as the “Black Pearl” – and hot, dry Lampedusa with its stunning coastline, not to mention tiny Ustica, and the wild and mysterious Aegadian archipelago. They are all well worth visiting, and thoroughly charming in their own right. Read on to discover which of Sicily’s diminutive neighbours ticks all your boxes, and how to start planning your island escape.
The Aeolian Islands Lipari
The largest and most densely populated of the Aeolian Islands, Lipari is known for its charming main town, complete with picturesque harbour and lively streets teeming with boutiques and bistros. This island feels more “Italian” than some of its sisters, and – thanks to its size – offers plenty of useful amenities (ideal for those who would rather not stray too far off-grid). It is one of the few islands on our list which allows visitors to bring a car by ferry, but do bear in mind that only local residents are allowed to drive motor vehicles from around June to September (to prevent summer gridlock). Given its central location in the archipelago, Lipari is a great base from which to island-hop, though if you are after somewhere that feels dramatically different from what you’ve experienced in Sicily, this may not be the island for you.
How to get there: Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) operates ferries to Lipari from Milazzo (1hr), Messina (1hr 45mins), and Palermo (4hrs) from €16.39/£14 one way
Where to stay: TaliaKà B&B
(0039 340073 7890; taliaka.it) has double rooms from £110 per night, with breakfast
Vulcano
Thought to be the entrance to hell in ancient times (but don’t let that put you off), today Vulcano is one of the most visited of the Aeolian Islands, probably due to its proximity to the Sicilian mainland. As the name would suggest, it is known for its volcanic activity, so be sure to visit Gran Cratere, a massive crater where you can hike up to the rim, admiring the volcanic landscapes, hissing fumaroles and sweeping views of the entire archipelago. It is a fairly easy hike (roughly two hours to walk up and back down, depending on your fitness level), but hiking boots are recommended (several places offer boot hire at the bottom). Vulcano has always been famous for its therapeutic mud baths and thermal springs (they have been closed for the past few years, though rumours suggest they will reopen this summer) as well as its black-sand beaches – which, though beautiful, aren’t recommended in bare feet on a hot day.
How to get there: Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) operates ferries to Vulcano from Milazzo (45mins), Messina (2hr 10mins), and Palermo (4hrs) from €13.14/£11.25 one way Where to stay: Hotel Eros (0039 090985 3265; eroshotel.it) has double rooms from £120 per night, including breakfast
Salina
The second largest Aeolian isle is often known as the “green island” thanks to its lush vegetation and two large verdant peaks. Located right in the centre of the archipelago’s “Y” shape, Salina is overwhelmingly peaceful, filled with quiet, charming villages and pretty coastal views. It is also a great choice for foodies, long famous for its oversized capers and production of sweet malvasia wine (various wineries offer tours and tastings, usually complemented by local nibbles such as caper tapenade and savoury biscuits). It is also famous for its beaches, the finest of which tend to be small secluded coves like that at Punta Scario (follow the marked path from Hotel Punta Scario, not far from the town of Malfa). There is a small bar that offers snacks and rents out sun loungers, and it is a unique setting that is usually very quiet – though keep in mind that the shallows drop away fairly rapidly, so it’s one to avoid if you have young children in tow.
How to get there: Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) operates ferries to Salina from Milazzo (1hr 45mins), Messina (2hrs 30mins), and Palermo (3hrs 15mins) from €16.63/£14.24 one way Where to stay: Hotel Punta Barone (0039 090984 3172; hotelpuntabarone. it) has double rooms from £150 per night, including breakfast
Stromboli
The most far-flung and easterly of the Aeolian Islands, Stromboli is famous for having one of the most active volcanoes in the world, with regular eruptions that send red lava up into the sky like natural fireworks. The island also has a rugged beauty and an unspoilt quality that tends to attract nature lovers – but the main draw is the challenging, steep ascent to the edge of the crater, where you’ll be rewarded by simmering pools of molten lava and billowing clouds of steam. There is a strong bohemian vibe here, too, making it a popular destination for yoga and meditation retreats.
How to get there: Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) operates ferries to Stromboli from Milazzo (2hrs), Messina (2hrs), and Palermo (6hrs, changing with a one-hour layover) from €20.15/£17.26 one way
Where to stay: La Sirenetta Park Hotel (0039 090986 025; lasirenetta.it) has double rooms from £110 per night, including breakfast
Filicudi
The Greeks referred to this island as Phoenicusa, meaning “rich in ferns” – which it is. Along with nearby Alicudi, Filicudi is one of the most remote islands in the archipelago, and while it is certainly sleepy, it is not as off-thegrid as its neighbour to the west. Like its siblings, it offers plenty of natural splendour, clear waters and secluded coves, as well as ancient archaeological sites, picturesque hiking trails, and abundant peace and quiet. The best way to see the island is by boat, which allows you to explore the wonders of a rugged coastline, including many caves. The most famous – and largest in the Aeolian Islands – is the Grotta del Bue Marino (the Cave of the Sea-Ox), where the gently lapping waves make a sound said to be similar to the bellowing of an ox.
How to get there: Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) operates ferries to Filicudi from Milazzo (2hrs 30mins), Messina (4hrs, changing on Lipari), and Palermo (2hrs 30mins) from €22.40/£19.20 one way
Where to stay: Le Sette Sorelle
(0039 322922 1200; lesettesorelle.com) has double rooms from £110 per night, not including breakfast
Alicudi
The most remote and least developed of the Aeolian Islands, Alicudi is a haven for those seeking nature and solitude. With only around 100 year-round inhabitants, there are no streets here – only steps and mule paths (donkeys are the main source of transportation) – and little in the way of amenities, besides two small mini-markets and a post office. You’ll need to be physically fit to take on Alicudi’s steep steps, but as you climb, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding waters and sprawling wild olive groves. Most of the beaches (mainly stony inlets) can only be reached by boat, so you’ll need to hire one, or catch a ride on one of the local fishing boats for a few euros.
How to get there: Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) operates ferries to Alicudi from Milazzo (3hrs), Messina (4hrs, changing on Lipari), and Palermo (2hrs) from €28.14/£24.10 one way Where to stay: Hotel Residence Il Mulino (0039 090988 9681; alicudicasamulino.it) has double rooms from £110 per night, not including breakfast
Panarea
With its pretty flora and tiny whitewashed villages, the archipelago’s smallest island has an almost Greek feel to it. Over the years, it has become a favourite destination for the international jet set: private yachts dot the harbours, and celebrities flock to the upscale hotels, boutiques and exclusive beaches. If you’re looking to completely disconnect in peace and quiet, Panarea is not the island for you – though in the evenings, when day-trippers are long gone, it does at last slip into a delicious calm that demands a sunset aperitif overlooking the glistening waters.
How to get there: Liberty Lines (libertylines.it) operates ferries to Panarea from Milazzo (2hrs), Messina (2hrs), and Palermo (6hrs, changing with a one-hour layover) from €15.87/£13.60 one way
Where to stay: Quartara Boutique Hotel (0039 090983 027; quartarahotel.com) has double rooms from £210 per night, including breakfast