INSIDER TIPS

of snorkelling – while dedicated scuba divers can board multi-day charters to remote locations.

Resorts such as Lizard Island, Bedarra Island and Orpheus Island provide privileged access to the reef but are beyond the reach of backpackers and many families with young children.

If you are trying to stretch the travel budget, then Cairns is the obvious choice since it offers a good airport, plenty of fun things to do and a wide range of accommodation. Apart from snorkelling and glass-bottom boat tours, visitors can head inland to the Atherton Tableland, a region famous for its wetlands, waterfalls and coffee. The 66km (41 mile) drive from Cairns to Port Douglas is utterly delightful, taking you past sugarcane plantations, pristine beaches and dusty little towns.

Many of the best Great Barrier Reef charters operate from Port Douglas, but the town is also handy for exploring the Daintree National Park – one of the oldest rainforests on the planet, teeming with wildlife, including fearsome saltwater crocodiles.

What to book

Silky Oaks Lodge (silkyoakslodge.com. au), just north of Port Douglas, is an exclusive rainforest hideaway complete with its own day spa, treehouse restaurant and immaculate suites. Guests can book a range of indigenous-themed experiences or guided reef trips. Daydream Island (daydreamisland.com) is a family-friendly resort in the Whitsundays, with unpretentious rooms, friendly staff and activities for all ages.

When to go

Marine stingers such as box jellyfish and Irukandji are a major threat in far north Queensland from November to May, and special suits should be worn in the ocean. Weatherwise, winter (July to August) is pretty idyllic, but spring and autumn are also pleasant times to visit the tropical north.

Carry on camping

Once the poor relation of the hospitality scene, the Aussie caravan park is getting a makeover. BIG4, G’Day and NRMA sites now offer swimming pools and games arcades. Opt for a basic cabin (£57 a night) or a glamping tent (£90 a night), both ideal for couples or families.

Eat better, for less

Australians have injected gastronomic brilliance into the food court concept. When you need something quick and inexpensive, head to the local shopping mall. Enjoy bites from around the globe, plus air-conditioning and onsite parking.

Alternative art

Cultural institutions such as the National Gallery of Australia (NGA), MONA and the Art Gallery of NSW grab the limelight, but Australia has several eccentric collections that will reward the inquisitive mind. The

Grainger Museum (grainger. unimelb.edu.au) in Melbourne and the Brett Whitely Gallery (artgallery. nsw.gov.au) in Sydney celebrate two wayward creative talents.

Room with a view

Fancy waking up to the sight of the Sydney

Harbour Bridge? Spend the night at Cockatoo Island (cockatooisland.gov.au) and a view of the “Coat Hanger” is just one of the many delights. The former colonial prison now houses a vast, decaying shipbuilding facility. There are plenty of accommodation options, and guided tours.

Craving for home

Sydney and Melbourne offer plenty of gourmet seafood joints – but for authentic British-style fish ’n’ chips, all roads lead to Constitution Dock in Hobart. Try the Au$32 (£16) Fisherman’s Basket at Mures (mures.com.au).