BARBADOS FOR 3 0 - SOMETHINGS
Make your stay on the island as full-on or laid-back as you like: pick and mix between the lively nightlife, challenging water sports, scenic drives and good old-fashioned culture, says John Wilmott
If you’re looking for an exhilarating mix of fun, style, action, relaxation and a smattering of intrigue, then Barbados is most definitely for you.
Few places in the world cram so much variety into such a small area – and if you have the energy to really make the most of your time in paradise, you certainly will not run out of things to do and places to see.
STAY AND PLAY
The best area to stay for thirtysomethings seeking a lively holiday is on the south coast, or at the south end of the west coast close to the capital, Bridgetown.
The south is where you will find the best choice of nightlife, a great range of good-value eateries, the more challenging water sports and the most accessible golf courses. A boardwalk stretching for about a mile between Camelot and Accra beach invites a stroll or a jog and is a good place to meet the locals.
For glamour, though, the west coast is hard to beat. Here are manicured beaches, the prettiest coves and the most splendid hotels, along with characterful towns and outstanding restaurants.
Carlisle Bay, between Bridgetown and Needham’s Point in the south west, is a good compromise; a long sweep of beautiful sand with a plethora of bars, clubs and restaurants, yet still within walking distance of the city centre and the historic Garrison area.
As for accommodation, the options are plentiful. If you prefer to eat out most of the time, consider one of the smaller south coast hotels on a B&B basis, or perhaps an apartment. If you like to be pampered, the larger all-inclusives are great if you have children, otherwise there are quieter options that offer similar levels of service.
GET YOUR BEARINGS
Soon after acclimatising to the rhythm of life in Barbados, renting a car for a day or two is recommended. This will give you the chance to appreciate the island’s diversity and plan the days ahead.
Driving is on the left and the roads are pretty good, although some country lanes are narrow and bumpy. Quirky signposting means you will probably get lost but you are never more than a few miles from the coast road.
If you are travelling as two couples, it’s quite economical to hire a taxi for a day. The driver will know a few secret places and provide the Bajan banter!
One suggested route would be to start from Bridgetown and head crosscountry to Harrison’s Cave in the centre of the island. The little tram that takes you into the tunnels and chambers is fun whatever your age and the subterranean waterfalls and sparkling pools are impressive.
Located nearby is Welchman Hall Gully, one of several foliage-choked ravines on the island. This is the ideal place to stretch your legs and possibly catch a glimpse of those famous green monkeys.
Further east is the wildest coast of Barbados. Gigantic boulders on the shore lend much distinction to the seaside village of Bathsheba, which is also recognised as a prime surfing centre – the waves here come straight across the Atlantic. There are a few good restaurants with sea views also dotted around here, plus a smattering of traditional rum shops.
Another popular route is to head north to Farley Hill, a high point where you can relax under the mahogany trees with panoramic views of the east side of the island, covered with a thick green carpet melting into the blue ocean.
One of Barbados’ handsome plantation houses, St Nicholas Abbey, is also up here, with the advantage of its own rum distillery. The old cane-crushing mill and the polished pipes of the distillery are well worth an hour to explore and soak up the atmosphere.
Even if you are heading back via the west coast road, you should emerge from the Abbey on to Cherry Tree Hill, where suddenly another east coast vista opens up. At the bottom, Morgan Lewis and Walkers beaches are long stretches of wave-brushed sand with barely another soul in sight.
PLAN OF ACTION
Activities in Barbados can be as full-on or as laid-back as you like. If your tendency is towards the former, make a beeline for Silver Sands in the far south, where you will find local legend Brian Talma and his water sports centre.
“De Action Man” and his team can teach you surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing and stand-up paddleboarding, or lend you the gear if you already have the badge. His brightly painted hut, complete with vivid artworks, is a fine place to relax when you are not out on the water.
The surf here is not usually as strong as on the east coast so it’s an ideal spot for beginners to try to ride their very first wave on a board.
And if you still want to wet your water wings, several hotels on the south and west coasts rent Hobie catamarans and kayaks; the latter are an especially satisfying way to seek out quiet coves and gain a different perspective on the island.
Diving is well organised and again caters for both expert and novice. Folkestone Marine Park in the west and Carlisle Bay, for instance, both have calm waters, wrecks to explore, a fair share of coral and a good stock of exotic fish and large turtles.
Prefer to stay on land? Try one of the island safaris. Using converted 4x4s, the usual route takes in rainforest, viewpoints, historic landmarks and isolated bays, with suitably bumpy off-road sections too.
The driver-guide provides a fun commentary along with drinks and snacks. If you are with a bunch of friends, ask to have a safari tailor-made.
For a fascinating snapshot of history, the Garrison complex, which is part of a Unesco World Heritage Site, has mysterious tunnels that were built by the British military in the early 19th century, probably for secret operations, but only recently discovered.
You can take a guided tour, preferably including George Washington House, where America’s first president stayed as a young man in 1751.
DRINK, DINE, DANCE
Tasty and fresh, Bajan cuisine is a pleasure and a joy. There’s little to beat a plate of fried flying fish with a generous dollop of hot pepper sauce, accompanied by large quantities of rice. You’ll find this national dish served up in every kind of eatery from the most casual al fresco restaurant to stylish evening venues.
Open day and night are the rum shops, the equivalent of the British pub – usually wooden buildings smothered in bright but often flaking paint and posters for booze. They don’t just sell rum, you can also get chilled beer and usually decent grub, too. They are the local meeting place for the community and perfect ffor a spot of people-watching as you sip on your fiery beverage.
The south coast and Carlisle Bay come alive after dark. St Lawrence Gap is the best-known patch for nightlife, boasting The Cove with live reggae and calypso acts and the trendy Sugar Ultra Lounge with sets from top DJs.
As an alternative, you can always head to Baxter’s Road in the centre of Bridgetown. It’s another lively place that attracts more locals than visitors, with music and sports bars and traditional fish-fry vendors. Don’t expect the party to start until about 10pm.
On Carlisle Bay, a popular attraction is Harbour Lights. At this open-air, beachfront nightclub you can sit under the stars munching barbecued food and watching limbo dancers and fire-eaters to the sounds of a steel pan band.
Staying on the west coast? Nightspots are more spread out but a good bet is Holetown, the site of the first British settlement in Barbados. Here you’ll find plenty of eateries – Chinese, Japanese and Italian as well as Bajan – along with jolly bars, several featuring regular live music or karaoke.
TRAVELLING WITHKIDS
Barbados caters for ages one to 100 so if you have started a family, there are numerous attractions.
Beach-wise, those in the west have calmer waters than the southern strands, though do watch little ones at the water’s edge as there can be a drop-off. The sand is soft and powdery and there is often some shade from palms or other trees.
Kids over 3ft tall (the imposed limit) will love the Atlantis submarines. They are real subs that go down to about 150ft to observe the underwater world through large portholes. The vessels set out from the quay in Bridgetown.
If you take the tinies out in your hire car, head for Barbados Wildlife Reserve up at Farley Hill. This open-style zoo has the likes of caimans, tortoises, deer and exotic birds, all in natural settings (with some scarier species in cages).
Try to time your visit with feeding time for the wild green monkeys, usually early afternoon.
On another afternoon, children old enough to be safe on a boat will enjoy a catamaran cruise that stops for a swim and snorkel with the surprisingly large yet friendly turtles.