Burch takes a sentimental journey back to her roots

TORY BURCH left elegantly bound volumes of love poetry on the seat of each guest at the unveiling of her autumn/winter collection on Valentine’s Day at New York fashion week. It’s just the kind of thoughtful, stylish gesture which crystallises why she has become a $1 billion net worth doyenne of the American fashion industry with her personal brand of preppy, well-mannered chic.

With her latest collection the focus switched to the cosy and familiar as the designer revisited her Philadelphia roots, inspired by the “outdoor glamour” and “confident femininity” of Katharine Hepburn’s character in the 1941 film The Philadelphia Story.

A delicate, painterly dancer print appeared on a blouson-sleeved tea dress and pussy bow shirt, given polish thanks to tan accessories. Burch teamed checks with bright Alpine knitwear, evoking a varsity ski trip feel. A pair of languid plaid trousers nodded to the Hepburn references but were updated with a zip-up cobalt blue Fair Isle sweater.

In places, there was a sense of nostalgia to these designs. Perhaps Burch had been looking back at her sorority days, too? A tartan knit and coordinating kilt had a collegiate vibe as did a uniform-esque navy skirt suit.

At 50 years old, Burch has created plenty to please the generation of women who have long bought into her brand, but those women’s daughters will also find appealing options here too.