Protesting in a stylish fashion
As New York showgoers turn selfies into political messages, Victoria Moss looks at new ways to wear your heart on your sleeve
Luxury fashion might not be the most obvious of backdrops for social protest, but New York Fashion Week became quite the political hotbed, with photogenic symbols of unity displayed as willingly as £2,000 bags on the front row. Trite? Maybe, but given the current febrile atmosphere, it was perhaps inevitable that the fashion industry would find its campaigning legs – with some results more successful than others.
The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) made a forceful impact with its backing of Planned Parenthood centres that offer sexual and reproductive health services to women – which is under funding threat from the new Administration.
Bright pink badges declaring support were distributed liberally across venues: Anna Wintour and Diane von Furstenberg wore them and, outside his presentation space, the designer Adam Lippes strung up banners in support of PP (shared copiously across Instagram). Given that the fashion world is largely made up of women, that PP has become its cause is not surprising.
The sentiment flowed through the crowds on to the catwalks: designers Prabal Gurung and Tome both claimed sartorial inspiration from the recent women’s march. The finale of Gurung’s show featured white T-shirts emblazoned with the slogans “The Future Is Female” and “We Will Not Be Silenced”, while the design duo Public School riffed off Trump merch with a red baseball cap that read “Make America New York”.
Then came a muchwelcomed shout back from the too-often silent sirens of the industry: models. In association with the Model Alliance and National Eating Disorders Association, open letters were shared on Instagram under the #DearNYFW. Revelations included models who were told to eat cotton balls dipped in orange juice to combat hunger, as well as one who was so underweight that she regularly broke ribs, because her bone density was so low. This somewhat underlined the point that while there is logic in using the extensive coverage devoted to show season to air more serious issues, the fashion industry itself has to get its own house in order, too. Which is where the well-meaning “Tied Together” campaign, launched by the influential website The Business of Fashion, split the jury. The initiative asks designers, models and fashion week attendees to declare their belief in solidarity, unity and inclusiveness by wearing a white bandana. Models at the Tommy Hilfiger show were styled wearing the token on their wrists. Days later, guests at the Calvin Klein show – including actresses Naomie Harris and Julianne Moore – worked one into their ensembles. Neatly, for anyone without access to Axl Rose’s 1988 tour wardrobe, the brand had thoughtfully sent out white bandanas to all showgoers the night before.
While New York is more progressive than the stages of London, Milan and Paris, the visual messaging of the industry remains oppressively narrow. If fashion really wants to make its mark on the subject of social unity, catwalks should be a better reflection of the purported love for all people and ethnicities. For the US fashion industry there is serious concern over the new political direction beyond social rhetoric; the proposed Border Adjustment Tax would potentially encumber brands who manufacture and import from around the world with an extra 20 per cent tax – enough to put many out of business. And, with Brexit looming, this is also something playing on the minds of Britain-based brands who use the specialised factories of Europe. London Fashion Week starts on Friday. Will its protagonists continue in the same vein?
The denim brand Diesel has just launched its new campaign in the city. Its moniker? “Make love, not walls”. While the famed boutique Browns is today launching a subtle yet cheering campaign entitled #cooltobekind. The store has enlisted street artist Andy Leeks (creator of “Notes to Strangers”, who posts messages of kindness across London) to liven up their changing rooms and windows with his jolly brand of pure optimism. The intention being to spread a little joy to passers-by who may be in need of a lift.
A reminder perhaps, that simple, practical actions can be much more powerful that self-professed signals of virtuosity.