Defiant Donatella serves up ‘cocktail sportswear’
WITH two high-profile magazine editorships seeking new incumbents (British Vogue and Elle) the front row at Milan Fashion Week was a ferment of fevered gossip.
However, last night’s Versace show offered some relief, for the focus was batted back across the catwalk to Donatella Versace, said to be in the process of offering – or at least sharing the reins of – her late brother’s house to her friend Riccardo Tisci, who has stepped down from his post as creative director at Givenchy. With no announcement forthcoming, however, it was business as usual for the platinum haired 61-year-old doyenne of Milanese fashion, who impressed upon guests her consistent message for the strong, modern woman – this season offering emancipation through “cocktail sportswear”.
At a preview, she enthused that women had to “fight”. “Right now there is so much going on in the world, and everything we [as women] have achieved could be finished tomorrow. We cannot permit that.”
Such fighting female spirit has been prevalent throughout this politicised season, but Versace perhaps offers the most high-octane interpretation. Her new power woman suiting impressed: the opening look a black double breasted jacket hemmed with pretty, sheer tulle, teamed with a white shirt, came with rounded shoulders and worn with bare legs – this is Versace, after all.
The collection continued with pretty, dégradé-detailed cocktail dresses – one falling in shades of teal blue to black – and coats, again with those rounded shoulders, this time merging from navy into a pretty pink and red tweed.
Other evening looks ranged from flirty floral minis with midi length alternates in the same print – a canny move appealing to a gamut of women’s taste. Court shoes and kitten heels were given a sports edge with ankle straps bearing the name of the house. Executive meets street style.