The Daily Telegraph

The power leggingng

How Lycra suddenlyen­ly got smartmart

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Two months after MPs ruled it should be illegal for women to be required to wear high heels in the workplace, we face a new tyranny on the female wardrobe: the legging (to use its fashion singular). On Sunday a furore unfurled on social media as two teenage girls were barred from boarding a United Airlines flight, for their “form-fitting spandex pants”.

“[The air steward] is forcing them to change or put dresses on over leggings or they can’t board. Since when does @united police women’s clothing?” tweeted a shocked witness, Sharon Watts.

The airline quickly defended itself, explaining that the girls were guests of employees and thus subject to company dress code – regular passengers would not be prevented from wearing leisure attire. But it still begs the question: have the fashion throwbacks taken over the world again? And where on earth do we we stand on them now?

In fact, the hoisery/trouser hybrids were born in the 15th century (and originally worn by men) but now they’re enjoying the kind of omnipresen­ce that they haven’t had since the Eighties. “I fear I will never invite zippers and buttons back onto my crotch” says legging fanatic and founder of the Man Repeller website, Leandra Medine.

Leggings were on the catwalks of Balenciaga, Celine and Max Mara; Chanel even put Moss Jr, Lottie, in a pair of cropped sequined leggings at their inaugural Metiers d’Arts show, at the end of last year.

Luxury e-tailer Net-A-Porter saw a 20 per cent rise in sales in the last year and has increased its offering by 25 per cent. “Leggings are certainly more prominent than they used to be thanks to the rise in street and sportswear trends” explains the site’s power-designer womenswear buyer, Katie Rowland. “We stock casual and basic leggings from the likes of Nike and Helmut Lang to more luxe versions from power designers The Row and Gucci. Last week we saw a huge surge in sales, with Gucci’s pearl embroidere­d striped jersey leggings selling out.”

At £725, they were billed as a “skinny pant”, though, perhaps proving that it’s all in the nomenclatu­re. “Designers have played with different fabricatio­ns in leather, stretch-scuba, cotton and twill to ensure that their appearance is both sculpting and seamless, so they’re incredibly flattering to wear.”

Still sceptical? Me, too. But their former slobby reputation is hardly applicable now that they’re made of high-tech fabrics and cost as much as the rest of your wardrobe.

The undoubted queens on the leggings scene are Sweaty Betty and Lululemon – the latter’s hit being the “Fast and Free”, which (alarmingly) have a “naked sensation for the wearer”. But having been embraced by yummy mummies and millennial­s alike, the legging market is booming.

There are swathes of niche young brands with leggings as their core offering, including LNDR, No’Ka Oi, Track and Bliss, The Upside, Charli Cohen, Adanola and Boudavida. Fashion types love Lucas Hugh and Laain, while Forbes last week heralded new technical legging brand DYI, sold in 400 outlets across the States, as “the next Lululemon”.

It’s happening across the high street – M&S sold 250,000 pairs last year and 2017’s sales have been up almost another 50 per cent again. It’s probably happening in an office near you, too. Journalist Edwina IngsChambe­rs has been wearing her Nike Pro Fit leggings for work for the last three years. “In all that time, I’ve only had one editor ever question them as legitimate work apparel. I’ve worn them for work dinners at the Wolseley, Claridges and Nobu. The only place I might not wear them is The Ritz.

“Leggings aren’t particular­ly a style statement” she adds, but “something to put you in the energetic frame of mind. They are also super flattering – far more so than jeans. They hold you in, they’re lightweigh­t and if you put a long-line shirt and tailored jacket with them, they look very chic.” She wears hers with Dior embellishe­d trainers, or Penelope Chilvers Chelsea boots.

Her top tip? Size up. Leggings are tight, but you want a pair that won’t dig into your stomach or pucker around the crotch in that unflatteri­ng modern affliction, known as “camel toe”.

It’s pretty tempting to seek easy, breezy comfort when faced with the crisp harshness of stiff denim. Zara’s SS17 campaign features leggings under skirts, a style move that Net-a-Porter’s Rowland says is “extremely versatile”. It’s a look I’ve tried myself, in lieu of cropped black trousers. Opt for ribbed or jersey over cotton or spandex, as they look less obviously sporty.

For fellow tentative legging wearers, I would caution against wearing any sweaters that end at the waistband and thus leave your groin bare. Instead, add a long shirt. My dream pair are by Esteban Cortezar and are ribbed, black stretch with cream cotton trim. With a white shirt or belted tunic and a pair of ankle boots or low heels, you’re a million miles away from the unflatteri­ng pair of my Nineties childhood.

For those who want to embrace the current preppy-meets-Eighties trend, try a stirrup legging and throw a checked, strong-shouldered blazer over the lot. Equestrian leisure at its finest – which should see you sail into first class on any flight.

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 ??  ?? Versace 202017 leggings left, and, above, KateKat Moss and Matt Lucas parparody slobby leggings
Versace 202017 leggings left, and, above, KateKat Moss and Matt Lucas parparody slobby leggings
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