MAN FRIDAY ROLL WITH IT; THE NINETIES ARE BACK
Nods to Britpop are pervading men’s style right now – but approach with caution, says Stephen Doig
Liam Gallagher, the Oasis brother known for barely daring to speak out of turn and his temperate nature, is back in full force on the cover of this month’s British GQ, donning a
Sgt Pepper-esque jacket. Meanwhile, his son Lennon is modelling on Milan catwalks and the two daughters of Blur’s Damon Albarn and Graham Coxon are rumoured to be starting a band with other Britpop babies. Throw in a Rachel haircut, economic buoyancy and a Spice Girls reunion and we’re back in the Nineties.
That particular decade turfed up some era defining moments in terms of dressing: minimalism, grunge, rave culture. But for all the ones that made it into the fashion history books, there’s a host of car crashes – stonewashed denim, baggy trousers and boot-cut jeans should remain firmly in the last century. I, for one, do not need to revisit the Ant’n’dec curtains and oversized Tommy Hilfiger sweaters of my Tamagotchilittered youth.
Still, a look at today’s menswear landscape proves some irrefutable nods to Nineties style are back en vogue. Kappa tracksuits have made a return courtesy of a highfashion remake by cult label Off-white’s creative director, Virgil Abloh. Selfridges has brought out a range of T-shirts with the Nirvana Smiley, while Nineties elements such as swamping trousers and suits with T-shirts abound on the catwalks. Even Gallagher’s own label, Pretty Green – a fine line of parkas in keeping with its founder’s style swagger – has seen rocketing sales of late.
Certainly the Nineties were kinder to our wardrobes than certain other decades, but it’s wise to tread carefully. Suits with T-shirts is a case in point; in the Nineties, seams were let out to epic proportions, which worn with T-shirts just looked a tad… sloppy. But today T-shirts with suits are a sign of fluid formality, the key being to keep the suit tailored and nipped in and the T-shirt neat, not baggy, in the best cotton you can afford. Staying on the subject of volume, while we’d never condone MC Hammer pants, the relaxing of trouser shapes in recent years has been a welcome respite after skinny jeans became such a phenomenon that their restrictive cuts were blamed for lowering sperm counts.
Looser shapes, as demonstrated on the catwalks of just about every respected menswear brand from Ermenegildo Zegna to E Tautz (whose stylish owner, Patrick Grant, wears them to grand effect for both casual days and formal evening events) offer a more louche, modern silhouette. Just keep the top half unfettered and fuss-free; Grant himself swears by a simple shirt or well-cut T-shirt.
And if you are brave and are willing to attempt tracksuits, perhaps there’s a tip to be garnered in racer track tops that can be worn with suiting – a nifty, dynamic touch that steers clear of Kevin & Perry territory.