Would you try a vegan beauty regime?
Veganism is on the rise – and now it’s set to take over your make-up bag, too. Victoria Hall reports
‘Vegan” can be a controversial term. But even if you don’t subscribe to the diet, you might consider giving vegan beauty products a try. Up until now the focus has largely been on what we eat (or don’t, for that matter), but in the last few months veganism has stretched from our kitchen tables to our bathroom cabinets, with everyone from Superdrug’s B beauty range to Nordic skincare line Skyn Iceland championing animal-free products – without compromising on function or feel.
Over the past 10 years, the number of people in the UK who consider themselves vegan has rocketed by more than 360per cent, from 150,00 in 2006 to 542,000, according to The Vegan
Society and Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals). The combination of well-touted health and potential weight-loss benefits and a roster of A-list advocates has enticed many to try it. Beyoncé, Brad Pitt and Natalie Portman are all vegans, though this isn’t a “celebrity trend” – instead they are using their voices to show support, as with Cowspiracy, a documentary on the environmental impact of livestock farming, produced by Leonardo Dicaprio for Netflix.
For some, the idea that there are animal-derived ingredients in their cosmetics might come as a surprise, but it’s fairly common, especially when it comes to make-up. Colours and dyes that make up our lipsticks and eyeshadows can be harder to formulate without the help of animal products. Carmine, derived from crushed beetles, is often used in red lipsticks, while boiled animal bones provide the fat – or tallow, as it’s more commonly called – used in foundations, eyeshadows and lipsticks. Some beauty brands also test their products on animals. “A vegan beauty product is one that does not contain animal ingredients and has not been tested on animals,” explains Dominika Piasecka, a spokesman for The Vegan Society.
That’s not to say some brands haven’t found alternatives. The Body Shop, Cover FX, Odylique, Inika and Hourglass are just a handful of brands that have offered entirely vegan make-up ranges without undermining style, while brands such as Kat Von D, Becca, Illamasqua and Charlotte Tilbury all offer vegan-friendly products within their collections.
Skincare can be harder to navigate as ingredients including ceramides, lipids and collagen can all be animalbased. And even though these days the majority of brands tend to use synthetic or plant-based alternatives, labelling on products doesn’t always make that clear. “Most companies have got away from using animal-derived ingredients, but unless they state as much, the vegan consumer has to follow up,” says Paula Begoun, beauty expert and founder of Paula’s Choice. For example, The Ordinary’s line of purse-friendly serums and creams is entirely vegan, but you’d have to read the labels carefully to realise, as it doesn’t market itself as a “vegan brand”.
To confuse things further, some brands follow one set of rules in the UK and another elsewhere. Labels such as Skinceuticals, which doesn’t use animal-derived ingredients (with the exception of its Triple Lipid Restore cream) or advocate animal-testing in the UK, are also stocked in China where, until March this year, the CFDA (China Food and Drug Association) required all imported beauty products to be tested on animals. Some specific products are now exempt from the mandate, but as China is such a large market in the beauty industry, many brands do test on animals to fall in with their guidelines.
Of course, there are alternatives to poring over lists of ingredients. “Consumers can look out for Peta’s international Beauty Without Bunnies logo, which clearly states whether a product is cruelty-free, vegan-friendly, or both,” explains Elisa Allen, director of Peta, with “cruelty-free” simply meaning “products that haven’t been tested on animals” but aren’t vegan. If you’re still stumped, both Peta and The Vegan Society websites list the best vegan beauty brands, while Cultbeauty. co.uk has a vegan filter.