The Daily Telegraph

The egg-topper and sugar tongs will be with us when the Nutribulle­t is long forgotten

- JANE SHILLING

It has taken many years and infinite patience, but I have at last persuaded my dear mother not to offer me the pallid brew she calls tea when I visit (it looks like pondwater and smells like newly-laid asphalt), but instead to break out the PG Tips she keeps for the gardener. Naturally, she did not concede defeat in the beverage skirmish without a parting shot or two. “You’ll have to make it yourself, darling,” she said, fishing the key to the tea-caddy out of her reticule. “I’ve no idea what one does with a tea bag.”

I compound my lamentable preference for the gardener’s tea by taking sugar in it. When I asked for the sugar it arrived in a silver bowl, accompanie­d by an implement I have hitherto encountere­d only as a weapon in the hostilitie­s between Gwendolen Fairfax and Cicely Cardew in The Importance of Being Earnest: a teeny pair of scaly silver claws – possibly the last working set of sugar tongs in existence.

I thought of those sugar tongs when I saw a letter to The Sunday Telegraph from Janet Robb, whose father used to ask visitors to guess the purpose of a silver egg-topper. In decades to come, I look forward to perplexing my future grandchild­ren by asking them what they think the tongs were for. Then again, glancing around my own kitchen cupboards, I note plenty of scope for future satirists of obsolete kitchen equipment.

The shade of Isabella Beeton would recognise without difficulty my bone-handled marrow spoon, the nameless implement for taking the stones out of cherries, the hand mincer that you have to screw to a work surface before feeding it chunks of meat while cranking a handle that extrudes mince onto a strategica­lly placed plate, and the elaborate but surprising­ly functional chafing dish – a tureenposi­tion shaped brass object with star-shaped cut-outs, twirly wooden handles and a couple of spirit-burners in its interior.

My partner, a late-onset cook with a keen interest in up-to-date kitchen technology, regards these objects with alarm. His own kitchen is a carefully curated showpiece of the culinary fads of the past few years. In one corner lurks a neglected Nutribulle­t which, after a few heady weeks of reducing eccentric combinatio­ns of fruit and veg to pastes of repulsive colour and objectiona­ble flavour, fell into disuse.

Next to it are the electronic kitchen scales, a device with such a wealth of options that by the time it actually consents to weigh anything, you’ve lost the will to cook. And my particular bête noire – the pasta tongs. Eliizabeth David didn’t have pasta tongs, I say, flourishin­g my copy of Italian Food. She says that most of the kit in the 16th-century Vatican kitchens, illustrate­d in Bartolomeo Scappi’s 1598 Cuoco Secreto di Papa Pio Quinto, is identical to its modern equivalent­s.

While the Nutribulle­t, and its faddy chums the spiraliser and knoblauchs­chaler (or garlic peeler), will probably suffer the same fate as the turnspit, or underdog, and be consigned to the realms of kitchen history and metaphor, I have an idea that in a few centuries’ time, the egg topper and the sugar tongs will still be going strong. Bizarre, inexplicab­le, but strangely comforting in a world that has forgotten why you can’t bash your egg in with a spoon or pick up your sugar lumps with your fingers, but dimly recalls that, once upon a time, their ancestors invented an ingenious device to do those humble jobs.

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