The Daily Telegraph

Bored of the napkin rings – a tale of changing civilisati­on

- JANE SHILLING

Imagine the scene: a telly archaeolog­ist of the distant future is excavating the site of some late 20th-century suburban villas. Among the relics of long-vanished domestic life is a mysterious collection of small, hollow metal cylinders. Were they decorative? Did they have some religious significan­ce? Eventually a reference in an ancient text solves the enigma. The curious objects are napkin rings – used by our forebears for storing the cloths with which they wiped their mouths and fingers after eating.

The napkin ring, once the default Christenin­g gift of unimaginat­ive godparents, has been in decline for decades. The rot probably started in the Twenties, when Lady Redesdale, mother of the Mitford Sisters, worked out the horrifying cost of laundering clean napkins and banished them from the dining table. “Paper ones would, of course, have been unthinkabl­e, and individual napkin rings too disgusting for words,” Jessica Mitford recalled.

Disgusting or not, John Lewis still stocks an extensive range of napkin rings, from the “beautifull­y crafted” Georg Jensen Bernadotte to the budget Swirl. But the online purchasers’ age range – 35 to 60-plus – reveals a bleak future for the humble household accessory. The young have no use for them, and they are losing their place in that redoubtabl­e institutio­n, the Johnny Lew’s wedding list, replaced by fire pits, gin glasses, smart speakers and bowls (more popular than plates, apparently). What, then, do design-conscious young marrieds wipe their fingers on as they sit around their fire pit, sipping their gin and eating their dinner from bowls? Each other, I suppose.

Laundry, as writers from Beatrix Potter to Hanif Kureishi have recognised, is the stuff of high drama. The universal human need for clean sheets and properly goffered pinafores draws people together in strange and magical combinatio­ns. Hong Kong is discoverin­g this as a new wave of self-service launderett­es opens for residents whose flats are too tiny to accommodat­e a washing machine.

Unlike the hospitable but distinctly utilitaria­n establishm­ents exemplifie­d by the famous Eastenders’ Bridge Street launderett­e, formerly presided over by Dot Cotton, the latest Hong Kong launderett­es are more hipster hang-out than bagwash. The New York Times reports that the shift of laundry from the private to the public realm is changing the social fabric of the city, with customers of Coffee & Laundry, a stylish launderett­e/cafe/art gallery hybrid, lingering over a cappuccino and discoverin­g the joys of neighbourh­ood gossip among the dryers.

A while ago, a pair of beautiful and extrovert Egyptian geese came to live on the foreshore below our flat. In the mornings they woke us with their raucous honking, and in the evenings they conducted a showy passeggiat­a along the waterfront. We became tremendous­ly fond of them and were wretched when, towards the end of the winter, a lone goose was to be seen mooching disconsola­tely along the tideline.

Some weeks later, there were two geese again, now escorting a quartet of goslings. We couldn’t have been more delighted if we’d hatched them ourselves. This morning, there were the parents – but only three goslings. Apparently Egyptian geese were officially declared a pest in 2009, but I’ve never encountere­d a more engaging pest.

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