Will the new M&S win you over?
There’s a renewed focus on basics and seasonal style hits on offer this winter, says Victoria Moss – but will you be buying…
It has become a tradition that when M&S unveils its new collection to press, we are there on the doorstep first thing to appraise it. I’m not sure there is another brand that can elicit such divided opinions and emotions. One scroll through its fervent and thorough online commentators confirms its position as the heart and soul of our high street. Maybe you think it’s past its best. You could perhaps be one of the vintage super fans who spend their spare time flicking through ebay pages looking for original St Michael pieces. But for my money, you’re missing out. Yes, the stores are not as jazzy and enticing as say, a Zara, or as chic and calming as a Cos; but there is charm in the old girl yet. It is still clinging onto the top spot – just, mind, after its last set of financial results, which showed a 62 per cent profit slump of the British high street market share. It now takes 7.6 per cent, with Primark snapping on its toes with 7 per cent.
However, to put this in some context, the entire high street is in peril, the advent of online shopping has blitzed the retail world; M&S is shutting stores in response and embracing the reality that we are simply buying more through screens. It aims to bring in a third of sales through its website by 2022, which is an entirely sensible proposal. That aside, business rates and rents are pushing many from bricks and mortar holdings. It is sadly bad financial sense to retain these expensive beacons of a bygone age.
Against this, another season brings another much scrutinised collection. For autumn/winter, the team have yet again refined and focused their offer, they are acutely aware of what Mrs M&S wants. Jill Macdonald, managing director of clothing and home, attests that they are delivering: “We have some categories that are going gangbusters, we’ve moved from having the fourth highest share of the UK footwear market to second. There are some areas that are growing in double digits. The high street is a tough place, but we are staying focused on designing what the customer wants and not getting caught up in the drama.”
Its winter shoe offer will be tempting to existing fans of its excellent collection – a focus on classics – brogues, sleek trainers, solid heels, interspersed with frissons of fun – a lush velvet pointed flat in black, a fuchsia kitten heel – also in
velvet – with a Manolo-esque smattering of crystals across the toe. Easy additions, which as Belinda Earl, trading director for womenswear and lingerie, says: “If you can update your wardrobe with a fun pair of £30 shoes, then you’re quite happy to do so.”
They have focused on this combination of buzzy design hits with core, dependable but stylish classics – with cost very much front of mind. It’s headline for next season is “The Foundation Edit” – easy basics and wardrobe essentials that they are hoping will underscore the fact that they are still the go-to for stylish, well-made building blocks: the white T-shirt (100 per cent cotton for £3.50); an extended denim offer with skinny, straight leg and boyfriend styles (denim is another hotspot area for them, and one they are extending accordingly, it has a very good slightly faded black wash that feels much more in line with premium brand offers); a black blazer; and the classic beige trench.
Alongside this key core collection they have produced some tempting pieces with the understanding that wardrobing has shifted – we now want a dress – probably midi length, in an enticing pattern (there are several that tick a lot of “I want that” boxes, in particular a chartreuse yellow pussy-bow number in a clever “is it striped or floral?” illusion print – it’s both) that we can wear in a warm September to work with boots and a jumper in December.
Versatility is the teams watchword. The coats are also particularly strong: heritage check wool with great lapel and cuff details; fun leopard (the print is doing very well for them currently); fluffy faux furs, which have a dose of Saint Laurent cool.
For anyone wondering how they can be chic and cosy, they’ve developed a first-to-market thermal heat-gen velvet, which comes in a turtleneck top (wear it under your printed midi) and scoop neck.
Another win is the “Molly” trouser, a flattering ankle grazing slim leg in myriad colours and materials. It’s a current best seller that they’re not letting go. This idea of multiple reiterations of the same piece is echoed in footwear (loafers in all hues) as well as across the season as a whole: a great green checked midi length kilt will appear in black later on in the season. The message? If you like it, come back for more. It’s a clear, defined and focused outlook, but as ever, the proof will be in the financial pudding.