Game makes the leap as ‘flexitarian’ diners discover wild side
‘Venison has an amazing life with no interference and eats the very best food. There’s nothing to beat it’
GAME meat is making its way on to the menus of trendy London restaurants for the first time, with “flexitarian” millennials said to be behind its rising popularity.
Restaurants such as Ottolenghi, Breddos Tacos and Bibendum have introduced quail and venison on their menus, and chefs say they are struggling to meet demand.
Mike Robinson, a hunter and Michelin-starred chef who co-owns the Harwood Arms in Fulham, is opening a new game-focused restaurant, The Woodsman, in Stratford-uponavon later this year.
Mr Robinson, as well as being in the restaurant business, is a purveyor of sustainable wild venison and manages approximately 40,000 acres of land. His business harvests about 700 deer a year.
He said: “Game is on the rise. Since I started cooking with wild food and game 15 years ago, I was one of the only ones. Now I hardly know a British restaurant or pub in the winter months that doesn’t have it on the menu.
“My new restaurant is using wild food as part of the menu. A big part of what we love to do is use sustainable wild meat. It has so many benefits. Venison has an amazing life with no interference and eats the very best food.
“If you look at it with your head and not just your heart, there’s nothing to beat it. I get a lot of people coming in my restaurant to eat game who have ethical problems with how farm animals are killed – in Britain most farming is done with huge care for the livestock – but at the end of the day, the way these animals meet their end can be stressful for them.”
The “flexitarian” diet, which eliminates meat or dairy for part of the week, has been popularised by ecoconscious young people.
The low carbon footprint of game, with much of it produced as a by-product of land management, makes it an attractive alternative to intensively farmed meat. Supermarkets such as Waitrose have latched on to the trend. The retailer has reported record sales of game, and is capitalising on its popularity among young, urban consumers by expanding its range to include ready meals and familiar cuts.
Mr Robinson said he had “a lot of discussions with young people and vegetarians who are rigidly anti the idea of meat – but they do say if they were to eat meat, they would want to eat wild meat as it has the best possible life and the best possible end.
“We are very lucky in this country to have such an incredible supply of game.” Claude Bosi, the Michelinstarred chef at London’s Bibendum, said: “I believe that the rise of flexitarianism is partially due to heightened awareness concerning mass farming techniques, whereas eating game allows for sustainable sourcing of meat, by following the natural cycle of the seasons.
“In addition, game provides a wide array of health benefits. For example, the pigeon I have chosen to include on the menu at Bibendum is a fantastic source of protein and beneficial minerals, in particular iron.”
Waitrose has met demand by stocking wood pigeon fillets as well as venison liver and game burgers. Waitrose has said venison sales are up by 35per cent this year.
Rob Hues, the venison buyer at Waitrose & Partners, added: “Our customers recognise the fantastic quality of our venison, appreciate the high flavour and low fat nature of the meat and are learning that venison can be versatile.
“This is reflected in the broad range of venison products that we offer at Waitrose – burgers, mince, stir fry, leg fillet – all highlighting that venison has an everyday place at our kitchen tables.”
Thomas Adams, the managing director of the British Game Alliance, said it had been “hugely encouraged” by a definite growth in the market.
“Restaurants that champion the best of fresh and wild produce such as Ottolenghi are embracing game on the menu for the first time and the Bga-assured processors have seen a dramatic rise in game being sold through supermarkets.
“For instance, Waitrose have seen the demand for their game casserole rise sevenfold since last year. “Fresh Bga-assured game is appearing on the shelves of wellknown food halls such as Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason and local producers are increasingly using alliance-assured game in their artisanal food offerings.”