Tonight’s dinner

Whole roast sea bream with fennel, drunken potatoes and aioli

of garlic and a little salt and pepper between each layer.

In a small saucepan, bring the white wine, sherry and thyme to a simmer. Pour over the potatoes, dot a little more butter over the top layer and put in the oven. Bake for 40 minutes, until the potatoes have absorbed most of the liquid and the top layer is beginning to brown.

While they’re cooking, take a sharp knife and cut diagonal slashes across each side of the fish, not quite down to the bone. Cut the lemon slices in half and push them into the grooves. Fill the cavity of each fish with a tangle of fennel slices.

Drizzle a little olive oil over them and season well with salt and pepper. Place the fish on top of the sliced potatoes and roast for a further 20 minutes.

While the fish is cooking, make the aioli. Using a balloon whisk, beat the egg yolks in a large bowl. Slowly, let the oil drip into the bowl, whisking constantly. I find it works best to alternate the oils until all the oil has emulsified with the egg yolk and you have a lovely thick mayonnaise. Make sure each drop of oil has been incorporated before you add the next. And if your mixture splits, just start again with a new egg yolk, and gradually add the curdled mixture to it.

Finish with a good pinch of salt, the crushed garlic, lemon juice and the finely chopped parsley.

To serve, scatter the fennel fronds over the fish and potatoes, and let everyone dig in.