Nine style lessons from New York Fashion Week
From sporty workwear to royal style nods and first lady ’dos, Sarah Kennedy reports on the view from the front row
Big Apple energy
“As soon as I step off the plane in New York, I am ‘on’,” said model Asia Chow in film director Francesco Carrozzini’s short film, New
York Stories, created for Belgian leather goods store Delvaux.
At its party to kick off New
York Fashion Week, Chow elaborated: “There’s an energy that clicks on when you arrive in this city, it’s electric and you just can’t ignore it.” This energy was particularly visible on the catwalks of a newer generation of brands who are shaking up things in a city not usually known for avant-garde fashion.
At Area, designers Beckett
Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk showed a magnificent all-white trouser suit with an oversized jacket draped in fine chains and another with sequinned shoulders, plus a stand-away golden cage-cloak over a white mini dress. Along with Pyer Moss, whose oversized silk tailoring was the ultimate in easy, edgy dressing, new New York style is making waves at last.
Saloon style
Summer’s big music hit Old Town Road by rapper Lil Nas X captured the cultural crossover between hip hop and country that few might have predicted – but everyone is loving. “Saloon Gal” style for 2020 is perfect for summer holidays or hanging around and looking romantic rather than leaning over the bannisters at the Gem (google this if you’re not a Deadwood fan). Jason Wu’s unfinished seams and scrunched up roses over bosoms summed up the look, plus a black lacy bloomer set and white, nightiestyle dresses at Self Portrait.
At Khaite there was a whole section of chic, closely fitted frocks with snug sleeves and super-pretty off-the shoulder necklines, and a sheer buttonthrough version of this look, too. Elsewhere we saw a touch of cowboy grit at Laquan Smith, where girls wore cowboy hats and sequins at the label currently under the close tutelage of Carine Roitfeld.
Evening all day
Long gowns and evening fabrics turned up in delightful daywear at
Staud, Prabal Gurung and Carolina Herrera. Danielle Bernstein, influencer turned business woman, admired flamboyant, sheer and full off-the shoulder dresses from Staud designer Sarah Staudinger, who used to work for sustainability pioneers Reformation. “I’d definitely wear that,” said Bernstein, pointing to a particularly beautiful blue and green gown. Millennials have embraced long gowns for all hours of the day and night, party or casual or work. In New York, throughout the summer months it’s not unusual to see the fashion equivalent of Little Bo Peep or any of the March sisters heading out for a day at the office (more on which below). Saving things for “best” is silly, is their mantra. It’s worth investigating as a clothing concept from time to time because Bernstein, for example, is a young woman building a huge business on the back of dressing up.
Colouring in
Vivid primary-coloured satin was a hot favourite everywhere this week, but particularly at Pyer Moss,
Ralph Lauren, Staud and Sies Marjan, where dresses in draped satin were truly gorgeous and a long-sleeved satin frock with a fitted form in a darker shade of navy was immediately shoppable. This is where New York designers excel. Jay Bell, the executive vice-president at Barneys, was also impressed, saying, “The Sies Marjan sense of energising colour [and] skill in intricate draping revealed a keen sensibility. Appearing deceptively simple, the dresses were particularly strong.”
Pretty princesses
Sounds more twee than it’s supposed to, by the way, but starting with the New York princesses subtly celebrated at Kate Spade, to Tory Burch and her homage to young
Diana Spencer, there was something rather lovely going on. At Kate Spade, celebrity models included Karen Elson and Madonna’s best pal and actress
Debi Mazar with her daughter Evelina.
The show took place among the sculptures in the Elizabeth Street Garden, an oasis in Soho for coffee, peace and quiet. Nicola Glass, its creative director, showed every kind of summery princess look, from full-sleeved, bowtied midis to peachy patterned Sixties mini dresses, lace and floral prints. Along with Tory Burch and Wes Gordon of Carolina Herrera – a favourite designer of the Duchess of Sussex – Glass was one of few designers to touch on florals this time. Tory Burch chose tea rose prints and in her show notes, mentioned the “restrained volume” on show. How princess-like is that for a dressing concept?
Power polish
Models appeared well groomed in this round of shows, something mystifyingly absent from many previous spring/summer seasons in New York. Ratty natural hair, roughly chopped then greased up before hitting the runway, was replaced by sleek tresses at Christian Siriano and deep side partings at Longchamp, for example. Everywhere, though, effort had clearly been made and there were lessons for those of us who may fall back too heavily on a more “natural” (read: minimal effort) look. Top of the hairstyle list was the Jackie O baby bouffant at Veronica Beard.
Soft tailoring
At Longchamp, a red leather mini dress in a classic tailored shape made hearts melt. Full-sleeved shirts and sheer fabrics in traditional silhouettes were made sporty with sock trainers to the knee and shorts instead of officeappropriate trousers.
At Tibi, strong shapes in head-turning shades made work dressing look easy. The signature zip-up element adds a casual touch and roomy, easy cuts definitely work best for summer. We saw this worked up with funkier cut-out elements at Adeam and in a softened way at newcomers Deveaux. In its first NYFW show, the brand delivered oversized jackets and softly draped and pleated khaki-tocream shades of jersey and comfortable yet elegant fabrics. Models of all ages looked as happy to wear these pieces as we would be.
Winter in summer
Who doesn’t love the sophisticated covered-up comfort of a cashmere rollneck and a great coat? “Maybe not in July” was a thought that dawned during the Row show – though in the British climate, who knows? The Olsen twins played it almost too safe this time with a selection of coats, sweaters and layers that felt warm to look at despite their cool, neutral colours. As global weather patterns change, interseasonal dressing has become more important to us all. Somehow the seasonal wardrobe swap pile is getting smaller year by year and if you travel for work, you’re going to need a jacket in July in, say, Copenhagen. This concept was present at 3.1 Phillip Lim in his utilitarian-based boys and girls collection which even featured the odd leather shawl. At Tibi, Amy Smilovic, its creative director, showed beautiful summer cashmere. “It’s so light,” she told me after the show, “I wore it all summer in Georgia. We have to think about climate and find fabrics that are not only sustainably sourced but wearable through different temperatures.”
Tux tutorial with Cate Blanchett
Tuxedos ruled at Ralph Lauren, whose show was an ode to this evening wear classic. Looking cooler than ice on the outside but warm as a cheesy potato on the inside, Mr Lauren’s special guest Cate Blanchett shared a few secrets of special-event dressing before the show. The star’s simple rules are chunky jewellery – in the form of a huge, sculpted gold ring, “A gift from my husband” and classic pearl earrings – and heels: “They really give you something – height!” she laughed. Blanchett, now aged 50, also has a secret weapon for keeping those blue eyes very bright. “I get these great Wasabi eyedrops from Japan. They really sting! Once that’s gone though, my eyes are clear.” Blanchett enjoys the simple glamour of American fashion. Clad in a custom Ralph Lauren all-in one tux with a frock-coat element and wide pants, she said: “I love easy things that can go from day to night. The Ralph Lauren team combined a tux and a onesie for me, my two favourite things, so they had me at hello.”