How to up your knitwear game
Knits don’t have to be cosy, says a moth-weary Stephen Doig
Moth larvae; how’s that for a sexy introduction to musing on men’s style? Because recently, in between my obviously glamorous day-to-day goings-on as a style journalist, I’ve spent an astonishing amount of time scanning the corners of the internet for moth slaughter options. Environmental concerns are one thing; holes munched through my Raf Simons sweaters are another. After cashmere knit upon cashmere knit, as well as coats and scarves, emerged from storage riddled with holes, a Game of
Thrones Red Wedding upon the south London moth community is about to commence.
As autumn sets in and knitwear reshuffles to the front of our wardrobes it’s worth considering how knitwear has been cast in a new light. What once was the sedately cosy option for a country walk or Sunday lunch – the wardrobe equivalent of a buttered crumpet by the fire – has upped its game recently, and gained a certain edge. So much so that last weekend, at a wedding filled with fashion-industry heavy-hitters, I clocked knitwear sneaking into the occasionwear bracket, sleek under blazers and elegant with tuxedo jackets. Consider, too, the stealth-wealth of Sky Atlantic hit series
Succession, where among the Manhattan elite knitwear is currency; so lofty is the luxury strata of some of the world’s most expensive cashmere that it’s a signifier of power.
And while we might not all be wearing fourfigure Mongolian kid goat cashmere from Loro Piana, it’s worth reconsidering your knitwear for autumn. The first tip, as those well-heeled nuptials proved, is that knitwear can be applied to more formal outings: opt for a lightweight, thin-gauge wool or cashmere sweater and don with a smart blazer. Shaggier, weightier varieties – chunky cardigans, for example
– can also add a touch of
hygge harmony to date nights and evening outings when worn with a crisp shirt and smart shoes. There’s something rather elegant and raffish about turning up to a cocktail party in a hefty cardigan, as long as it’s pin-sharp and fresh-looking. Leave moth-eaten, scruffy varieties to myself and Compo from Last of the Summer Wine.
These pages have touched on this trend before (prompting a personal career highlight – a discussion on Loose Women), but it’s worth considering the polo neck as grownup, sophisticated attire for party season. Again, keep the gauge thin and lightweight and pair with an evening jacket for after-dark elegance.
And a few pointers for keeping knitwear pristine: while I’m heavily against single-use plastic, zip-lock plastic bags are a fashion insider’s secret weapon. Similarly, freezing coats, scarves and jumpers on rotation kills larvae, although you’ll have to reshuffle the peas. Those intending to go nuclear can also do as the tailors of Savile Row do and opt for Formula P’s kits that fog moth-riddled rooms – though make sure you air them afterwards. When even this animal-loving vegetarian is hell bent on bloody slaughter, you know they’ve hit me where it hurts – the cashmere.