Tonight’s dinner

Good ham with pickled quince, crispy potatoes and Gorgonzola cream

Serves four Ingredients For the pickled quince

500ml cider vinegar 350g granulated sugar 4 cloves

10 coriander seeds 10 black peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick 3 strips of lemon zest 800g quince

For the rest

1kg potatoes (something good for frying, like Maris Pipers), cut into small chunks Olive oil, for frying 300ml double cream

1 large garlic clove, peeled and bashed

150g Gorgonzola (or another creamy blue cheese), crumbled 4-8 thick-cut slices of good ham

Method

Start with the pickle. Put all the ingredients, apart from the fruit, in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves. Set aside.

Peel, core and quarter the quince. Add to the vinegar solution and turn the heat back on under the pan. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for about 20 minutes, or until the fruit is tender.

Transfer the fruit to a sterilised jar. Turn the heat up under the vinegar and simmer until the liquid has reduced by about a third and become syrupy. Strain over the quince and put the lid on. Set aside to cool completely.

Put the potatoes in a pan of well-salted cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain and leave to steam for a minute or two.

Set a large frying pan over a medium heat with a good glug of oil. Add the potatoes and fry until golden and crispy, turning occasionally. Sprinkle with coarse salt.

Meanwhile, heat the cream and garlic in a small pan. When it is just below the boil, stir in the cheese until melted. Set aside.

Serve the ham with the hot potatoes, warm cream and pickles. Plenty of mustard and a green salad are not obligatory, but advised.