What are the 2020 rules for baring skin?
In these divisive times, we’re damned if we do and damned if we don’t
You may think it’s absurd that so much airtime has been given this week to Labour’s Tracy Brabin, specifically her shoulder and the fact it was exposed by her £35 Asos dress as she stood at the dispatch box. Indeed, the row – which saw Brabin labelled “a slag, hungover, a tart, about to breastfeed” (according to her own tweet) – was extensively discussed on Thursday’s BBC Question Time (one member of the audience described her look as more “disco outfit” than “politician”) and the MP appeared on TV to defend her style choice, adding that the outcry about a few inches of bare shoulder equated to “everyday sexism”.
I just can’t get on board with the argument that commenting on the dress is sexist. Yes, it’s completely horrendous that Brabin had to endure vile tweeters telling her that she looked like she’d been “banged over a wheelie bin”, but what we wear is a universal preoccupation that has little to do with gender and much more to do with a yearning for the safe space of dress codes, both explicit and unspoken, and disquiet when anyone strays beyond the established confines. I’m just as compelled to check out Dominic Cummings’s latest dishevelled concoction as I am to ruminate on Brabin’s choice of workwear.
Men tend to have it a little easier, because a suit, shirt and tie is such an entrenched uniform, but women get to experiment and have more fun, which is something to celebrate.
I thought Brabin’s dress was quite fabulous; the silhouette was flatteringly chic and a nice alternative to some of the unforgiving bodycon work dresses many women in the public eye seem to feel compelled to rely upon. She may even have had the idea to try the look from the Telegraph’s very own Lisa Armstrong, who extolled the virtues of the look in a recent Stella magazine column. “Revealing some shoulder this winter isn’t such a bad idea,” she wrote, “especially if you feel you look too severe or prim (as opposed to Fashion Severe or Fashion Prim) when every inch of you is covered.” Of course, it was a shame that the neckline strayed a little further than is probably ideal but given that we’ve been treated to more than a flash of boxer short from Cummings, you’d think we could all be grown-ups about it.
One reason that shouldergate has sparked such outrage is that generally fashion winds have moved in the opposite direction of late. Modesty has been the obsession, with longer skirt lengths, ruffled high necks and long sleeves prevailing over anything remotely revealing. But fashion always rebels against itself in the end, and we’re perhaps at a stage in the trend cycle when a shoulder in Parliament feels to some like a piano leg might have to the Victorians.
There was some incredulity, too, when the year began with Gwyneth Paltrow – who had lately developed a reputation for her refined, covered-up style – taking to the Golden Globes red carpet in a see-through tulle Fendi gown, which served mostly to highlight the potential physical perks of following a Goop lifestyle. “It really does celebrate what she practices. Her whole sense of empowerment,” Paltrow’s long-time stylist, Elizabeth Saltzman, told Instyle. The red carpet has far more relaxed standards when it comes to exposure than other platforms, but a trend encapsulated by Paltrow has been reflected elsewhere among A-listers, too. Brabin would have seemed modest alongside Meryl Streep in strapless Alberta Ferretti at the SAG Awards or Laura Dern in low-backed, hot pink Valentino at the Baftas.
Actually, if you want to see an example of a woman baring skin and owning it, look no further than Dern as power divorce lawyer Nora Fanshaw in Marriage Story (for which she won the Bafta for best supporting actress) wearing decolletage- and arm-baring shift dresses and vest tops.
That’s really the key to skin exposure in these divisive, bound-to-cause-atwitterstorm times. We’re damned if we do and damned if we don’t when it comes to landing on the perfect formula; some may consider it boring to look too trussed up whereas even a hint of flesh will denote slovenliness for others, so why not do what feels right and flattering for you?
Naturally, I do have some pointers. I’m sure you’ll have heard all about the theory of reveal vs conceal. Here, you must work to your strengths. The cold-shoulder look has proven popular because most of us have lovely shoulders; the skin there tends to be smooth and they don’t get too fat or wrinkly. The shoulders are also more understated and elegantly sensual than legs or decolletage so there’s less likeliness of things going wrong (which might be small comfort to Brabin).
Reiss has some gorgeous offshoulder pieces which conjure this insouciance – I particularly like its gold striped knit, which is twinkly without being too much and will tone nicely with most skin tones. As an alternative to an obviously shoulder-baring design, you might like to try teaming a silky cami strap dress (see Bias editions, Olivia von Halle or Asceno) with a chunky, oversized belted cardigan such as Iris & Ink’s oatmeal version, which you could artfully arrange to reveal as much shoulder or upper arm as you feel happy with – this is a good look for winter dinner parties. The big knit trick also works well if you’re keen on your chest; opt for a deep V-neck and enhance with delicate gold jewellery. The oversized-ness leaves the rest to the imagination.
There are lots of wrap dresses around, too, which are equally excellent tools for on-point exposure. A standout is Gillian Anderson’s silk georgette design for Winser London, which comes in a sumptuous shade of aubergine as well as black and is cut to be a longer midi length so there’s a hint of leg to offset the V-neckline.
Of course, you could layer a polo neck underneath if you’re feeling polite but do channel Anderson, who is something of an expert herself in achieving skin-baring perfection (see her characters in The Fall and Sex Education, though her forthcoming turn as Margaret Thatcher may not wield much inspiration).
An everywoman alternative to Paltrow’s Fendi look is a sheer shirt, à la LK Bennett’s polka-dot blouse, which comes with some sweet prim details like a ruffled front and pointed collar. You may like to wear it unbuttoned with just a nice black bra beneath (more Valentine’s Day jazz concert option than parliamentary address) or add a silk camisole for a suggestion of flesh without being remotely eyebrowraising or, indeed, Tweet-prompting.
And where do we stand on miniskirts? No matter what you think of her overall look, Brigitte Macron has put paid to the theory that only teens can carry off anything above-the-knee. And after years of midi domination, there has been something of a mini comeback. If you’re considering one, take note of Alexa Chung and Holly Willoughby, who wear theirs with modest jumpers or slouchy, mannish shirts and chunky ankle or riding boots.
As for Brabin, she’s having the last laugh. Her dress soon sold out on Asos so she’s decided to auction hers to benefit Girlguiding UK after the organisation found that 50 per cent of girls aged 11 to 16 are put off from becoming leaders because they felt that women in power are criticised more than men. At the time of writing, bidding had reached over £3,450. It’s great that Brabin is donating her dress for a good cause, but I hope she doesn’t give up on the cold shoulder. It’s a hot look.