Stephen DOIG
Hot damp! The weather’s gone totally tropical, so dress like it, says Stephen Doig
Iwitnessed two incidents with men and the wardrobe tropes of summer this week. One was at a smart bar in south London, where I realised I’ve become a Disgruntled of Derbyshire type who writes to the local newsletter about children on the village green. A man breezed into the bar in a gauzy, Rab C Nesbitt vest with nipples on display. Call me a harrumphing dowager in a Jane Austen adaptation, but even in the broiling heat, I maintain that nipples are for the beach club rather than the bar. The second was hearing that a gentlemanly acquaintance, one of the most put-together men I know, was turned away from an establishment for wearing tailored shorts, pristine shirt, a cravat and bespoke deck shoes.
But then again we’re in that strange August silly season, and not any silly season, but the one to end them all, as we face a tropical storm of a heatwave, torrential rainfall, a pandemic and frightening economic apocalypse. Perhaps it’s just that rules are thrown out of the window altogether. But it does raise the issue of how to dress in a sophisticated way when all you want to do is curl up in the fetal position inside a chest freezer. Are shorts OK in a chichi eatery? Are sandals passable over a birthday lunch?
Men tend to fall into a few distinct categories during heatwaves like this. There’s Mr Tropical, a blaze of prints and pattern, sipping a garish cocktail at a Westfield Tiki bar. There’s an affection for this summer stereotype, because when do men ever really get to embrace a bit of fun in their wardrobe? That’s reserved for holidays, so it’s cheering to see a man unshackle himself from the grey suit and let loose.
This look also has serious style form; Elvis and Montgomery Clift in Aloha shirting spring to mind. See also David Beckham this week, emerging from the Aegean Sea in OTT Versace trunks. If you’re going to go full tropical, strike a balance – a Hawaiian shirt with some crisp tailored chinos for evening dinners, or a jungle-patterned pair of shorts with a white T-shirt and a tan. A cocktail with an umbrella is the obligatory accessory.
Next up is the more sartorially minded version; the man from Del Monte, tailored but for the tropics. A white suit is a brave move, so limit it to formal summer evenings somewhere splendid. Alternatively, opt for a loose, airy variant in fawn or olive tones, and steer clear of linen – it crumples after about six seconds. Seersucker is a brilliantly breathable fabric, just avoid antebellum candy stripes.
The last type on our list, and perhaps the worst summer style offender, is the Anything Goes man. It’s too hot and you’re off duty, so slovenly T-shirts and shorts will do. That’s fine on the beach, but old T-shirts tend to pucker at the neck and cargo shorts – I’ll never understand the dad obsession with these military throwbacks – look bulky and lumpen. So parlay “can’t be bothered” into “minimalism” instead; neat white shorts and well-made, plain T-shirts and classic leather sandals. It’s minimal effort, but the quality factor will speak volumes. The world might feel like it’s on fire in more ways than one, but at least your wardrobe will be a breeze.