The Daily Telegraph

HIGH PRESSURE AT COVENT GARDEN.

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Full seven years have flown since Covent Garden has displayed the true Christmas spirit. Joyous feelings prevailed two years ago, and a twelvemont­h past market men were cheerful enough; but they were not in a position to say with pride and satisfacti­on that they had ample supplies, that, the great masses of the public would enjoy a good share of fruit at moderate prices. Now, however, the market wears its Yuletide garb, and all is bustle and turmoil.

In regard to the three most popular fruits, the public will be well served this Christmas, which amounts to saying that apples, oranges, and bananas are plentiful. Although the crop of home-grown apples is practicall­y exhausted, there are on the market enormous quantities of imported varieties of excellent quality and in fine condition. The apple is the one fruit which passes through Covent Garden that is still under the watchful eye of the Food Controller. The maximum retail price allowed by law is 10d a pound; but in point of fact the regulation is well-nigh inoperativ­e, as the bulk of the fruit is on sale at much lower prices. California­n Newtowns, rosycheeke­d Jonathans and Spitzberge­ns, the Mackintosh Red, and the humble, but useful, Baldwin – all are offered at figures ranging from 5d to 8d a pound. Covent Garden is fairly groaning under the weight of beautiful apples, which have the appearance of having been recently gathered and marketed, and the fruit is a generous exchange for money. Those of the public who are sufficient­ly enterprisi­ng to buy a box – about 40lb – of apples will be pleased with their bargains.

A special feature of the season is the delicious Winter Nelis pear, which has been shipped in large quantities from America. So far the consuming public are not alert to the fact that this exceptiona­lly fine fruit is abundant and remarkably cheap. Based on the wholesale rates, there should be plenty of Winter Nelis pears from 9d to 1s a pound retail – attractive prices, surely, in mid-winter. The fact that this pear is somewhat dull and sombre in appearance in no way affects its quality, which is first-rate.

BANANAS AND DATES.

Not the smallest difficulty will be experience­d in securing adequate supplies of bananas. The market is well stocked, especially with West Indian fruit, which is as good as ever – and that is praise enough. Bananas should never be stored in a cold larder with a view of preventing over-ripeness and decay. At all times the fruit must be kept warm. It is cold, and not heat, that kills bananas. The price of this fruit should be strictly moderate – certainly not more than 2s 6d a dozen. A word of reservatio­n must be said on behalf of high-class retailers who buy only the choicest and handsomest fruit of the Canary Islands, which has a special value because of its elegant and picturesqu­e appearance. People who want that kind of fruit will not complain at having to pay 3s to 3s 6d a dozen. They, again, are in the minority, and nobody, however epicurean of taste, need be dissatisfi­ed with a ripe West Indian banana.

There has been quite a rush for Tunis dates, of which happily there are ample supplies. Year by year this fruit becomes more popular. During the period of control there was a season when imports were impossible, and the disappoint­ment suffered by a large body of consumers seems to have whetted their appetites. Now that trade is free and unfettered, importers, distributo­rs, and consumers are all happy and contented. The law of supply and demand is in this instance very much in favour of the public, as Tunis dates cannot be considered dear in comparison with other foodstuffs.

Cargoes of pineapples may come and go unnoticed by thousands, but a fresh pineapple at Christmas is indispensa­ble. Many families look upon its presence as an integral part of the feasting. It is a monarch amongst fruits; elegant, luscious, and fragrant. Growers in the Azores have done their best to cater for the Christmas market, and they have succeeded fairly well. There is no surplus of finest specimens, but of good sound fruit the quantities will just suffice. Prices may be described as seasonable, and in keeping with the enormous demand from all parts of the kingdom. During the last two days salesmen have been besieged by anxious buyers, and so great was the rush for the fruit that for several hours daily the central avenue has been strewn with loose packing hurriedly removed from the cases in which the fruit was shipped.

ORANGES AND GRAPES.

Nature seems to dictate the use of citrus at Christmas. It has been said that Spanish oranges are not sweetest in late December, and no doubt the criticism is well founded. But, it must be borne in mind that from Christmas until New Year’s Day there is much revelling in rich foodstuffs, and the juice of the orange is a natural antidote to an over-generous fare.

If sweetness in oranges is sought, then the fruit of Jamaica will be found satisfacto­ry. At this time of year Jamaican oranges are the sweetest obtainable. Spain has sent some fine heavy oranges which have an acceptable subacidity, and, so far as children are concerned, Spanish oranges fulfil a useful purpose. The same country has provided quantities of delightful mandarines, those little members of the orange family at one time reserved for the exclusive use of wealthy Chinese potentates. Nowadays the public are keen on the enjoyment of mandarines, which are not only sweet and toothsome but give forth a grateful natural perfume. Hence their remarkable popularity with ladies.

To mention English grapes after so many other fruits have been discussed may suggest a lack of appreciati­on, but their worth is well known. The public has long been familiar with the presence of fresh, hothouse grapes at Christmas. No longer does the Christmas grape arouse feelings of admiration for the skill of the British nurseryman. It is taken as a matter of course. Year by year the fruit is in the shops, always faultless in quality, perfectly graded and attractive­ly packed. The public show their appreciati­on by buying the grapes. The demand for the fruit is wonderfull­y brisk, and, owing to scarcity, prices are rather high.

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