Lisa ARMSTRONG
Whether you’ve spent lockdown in PJS or sequins, the sartorial path ahead is an interesting one. Will “normal” life ever go back to the way it was? And do we even want it to? That question’s worth savouring because the coming months present us with a once-in-a-life-time opportunity to change what we do and how we dress in ways both big and small.
Maybe you’re chomping to get back into heels and Spanx. Or perhaps, like me, you periodically approach your shoedrobe of heels and pointed toes as if it were mysterious meteorite fragments in the Science Museum. What strange relics are these?
Ten months on, most of us have probably drawn up our own red lines about what we don’t want to wear. If you haven’t been checking in regularly with what’s available online, it’s hard to know where to start with what we do want. Perhaps you’re looking for one or two pieces to reboot your style. Or maybe you want an entire wardrobe overhaul to go with your overhauled new life. Any or all of these 12 items should go a long way to help you switch things up, and they’re all eminently adaptable to most situations, give or take some extra jewellery or a belt here and there. In the meantime, let’s promise ourselves not to get sucked back into wearing clothes that are uncomfortable, uncheering and unflattering.
1. The spring coat
Sartorial happiness is having adequate layers, as your grandmother might have said. She would have been right. A light coat might seem an extravagance, but this one from M&S is VFM and will get worn more often than you’d think. A good spring coat should be roomy enough for layers without swamping you, and should look good over skirts and trousers – mid-shin should do it. It should also be able to stand in for a jacket. Pale shades are especially mood-lifting and lovely layered over toning shades.
2. The posh jeans
Having played second fiddle to jersey and fleece last year, denim is back. OK, these are pushing it pricewise, but the zero-waste E.L.V. flares bestride the top of the denim pile in style and sustainability. Made from two pairs of recycled jeans, they also feature ecofinish hardware and cast-off leather labels. But really they’re here because, while they’re made from denim, the construction is that of a super-slick pair of trousers that will look great (and hold you in, gently) wherever you’re working or socialising. Treat them as you would a pair made from more traditionally formal fabrics and dress them up with pretty shirts, formal tailoring and deluxe-looking coats and accessories.
3. The 1970s skirt
The reason why so many items associated with the 1970s have become classics is that by the time they’ve been put through a contemporary wash – updated colours and fabrics – they’re easygoing, shape-enhancing and work with flats, heels, sandals and boots. The length, the gentle flare and the versatile colour of this (not black or navy, but still neutral to go with just about everything) mean you’ll wear it a lot with chunky jumpers, oversized or nipped-in jackets or the matching blouse.
4. The South of France blouse
I’m very inspired by the idea of the single statement piece – the separate you can toss on over other far more casual items to make an outfit that’s much greater than the sum of its parts. Roksanda, Erdem, Molly Goddard and Palmer//harding are masters of the concept and Palmer//harding, in particular, have made a career out of statement shirts. They’re gorgeous and dramatic (palmerharding.com) and if you have £400 to spend on one, head there. This one from Me+em is more accessible but still hits a relaxed yet polished note that can be so effective both in the office and out.
5. The shirt waister
If you were never quite convinced by last year’s tent dresses, you’ll be glad to know there are plenty of shirt waister substitutes. The cotton shirting ones look particularly impressive (in a laidback way) on a summer’s day, but require a nifty ironing habit. If that’s a turn off, then this one from Cefinn, in a knockout green, is washable.
6. The bucket bag
Strathberry, the Scottish accessories brand that Meghan put on the map, has rapidly become the go-to for durable, soft leather with moreexpensive-than-they-look details. Along with most brands, they’ve streamlined their selection to focus on their most popular designs, including a medium tote and this dinky, deceptively roomy bucket, which they call the Lana Osette. You may not need a new bag, but a soft, huggable shape in fresh shades of tan and cream is as good a lift as salted caramel ice cream. And it won’t give you diabetes.
7. The caramel ballet pumps
You have them in black, now it’s time for the spring version. The modern interpretation has a high vamp and accentuates the toe – part Margot Fonteyn, part Friar Tuck and much nicer than it sounds. The fashion team has tested many pairs and Essen consistently makes the most stylish, durable, classic-with-a-monastic-twist pumps.
8. The chore jacket
If you have all the blazers you’ll ever need or don’t normally wear jackets, the chore jacket is your gateway to a low-maintenance tailored look. This one’s in cord, which makes it harder-wearing than velvet, but smarter than denim, which it also comes in. I love the combination of this with very smart trousers or a silky dress, with anything pale blue or a pair of tailored denim jeans. Denim is making a comeback and the best versions are sleek and smart, with piping, contrast stitching and crisp creases.
9. The clog
You’ve got the trainers, you’re all set with the Birkenstocks, now you’re looking for some footwear to give you a lift, in every sense – something that bridges the chasm between shoe and slipper. Clogs are back – of course they are, given the current swing towards clompy, homespun un-glamour. This Russell & Bromley pair are a refined cut above the rest and will work with whatever you throw at them
10. The button-neck jumper
When in doubt, choose buttons. I’ve never seen neck-to-shoulder buttons fail to make a jumper look more chic. The perfect jumper avoids gimmicks and focuses instead on cut, colour and all important details such as sleeve length and where the neckline hits the collarbone. That’s what it takes for a simple basic to cut it in any situation. This one from A.P.C. does.
11. The waterproof
One of the key style lessons of the past year has been the value of a rock-solid, does-what-it-says-onthe-tin coat-drobe. If it looks like a waterproof, it should be waterproof. With months of social distancing outside ahead, it’s not too late to upgrade. This nifty, colourful little windbreaker from Maje definitely constitutes a step up. The adjustable drawstring hem makes it work over dresses and high-waisted trousers.
12. The glamdigan
The Chanel-esque cardi-jacket has seen women through challenging patches for the past 70 years. What better hybrid of classic glamour and modern comfort could there be? No wonder there are multifarious iterations of it this year. I like the look of the longer ones, like this one from Maje, because they give you the option of belting it (and sneaking in some extra bling). With some smart denim and some sharp pumps, this could be a new office look.