Slovenia’s bid to sell balsamic strikes sour note in Italy

AN ATTEMPT by Slovenia to muscle in on the lucrative balsamic vinegar market has left a sour taste in Italian mouths, with Rome pledging to defend the famous product.

Slovenia has proposed that any vinegar containing concentrated grape must could be called balsamic vinegar.

Italy is resolutely opposed to that, saying that its aceto balsamico is a distinctive product made to a unique recipe and that it comes only from the city of Modena and its surroundings.

There is much at stake – Italy says that balsamic vinegar sales are worth around €1 billion a year.

The country’s agriculture ministry has written to the European Commission to contest the Slovenian move.

“The protection of Italian wine and gastronomy is one of the government’s priorities,” said Stefano Patuanelli, the agriculture minister.

“We will do everything possible to defend Modena’s balsamic vinegar from these illicit attacks.”

Coldiretti, a national food association, added in a statement: “The unacceptable ripping-off of the name balsamic vinegar by Slovenia puts at risk a €1 billion sector and represents an attack on the whole system of quality Italian produce.”

The association said that Italy already suffers immense damage from other countries appropriating its distinctive food and drink, with Italian-sounding or Italian-imitation products.

The Italian consortium of producers of balsamic vinegar is also alarmed by the Slovenian challenge, saying it would undermine EU systems that recognise products with a unique tie to a particular region, from Champagne to buffalo mozzarella cheese.

Slovenia’s agriculture minister said its proposals would not “oppose or restrict in any way the already established protected geographical indications” for Italian balsamic vinegar.

The European Commission will make a ruling within three months.