Rebirth of an icon

One of Gérald Genta’s most famous designs, Patek Philippe’s sporty and shapely Nautilus caused a stir when it debuted in 1976. An early example of a luxury watch in stainless steel, its curvy octagonal case with integrated bracelet and striated dial quickly gained a cult following. Today it is available in more than 20 versions covering various sizes, metals and complications.

Although it is often used, rarely is the word ‘icon’ apposite when attached to a watch model. One notable exception, however, is the blue-dialled Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, launched in 2006 to mark the 30th anniversary of the brand’s signature collection. A frenzied desire for the piece, plus limited supply, resulted in a waiting list that stretched into years and astronomical prices for the resale of pieces on the pre-owned market. So when Patek announced that the model would be discontinued earlier this year, hearts were left breaking.

But, when one door closes, another one opens and the house has this week announced four new Nautilus models to help devotees ease their loss. The simplest of the quartet, and possibly the one set to be the most desirable, is the ref. 5711/1A-014 (pictured). Housed in a 40mm brushed and polished stainless-steel case, the watch is water-resistant to 120m and features an on-trend, olive-coloured, sunburst dial, with or without a baguette-diamond-set bezel. The distinctive green face is accentuated by white-gold hour markers and luminous baton hands. The timepiece is powered by the self-winding Calibre 26-330 S C movement, which has been used in the ref. 5711 since 2019 and is visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

For those longing to hop on a plane to sunnier climes, there is also a new ref. 5990/1 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph in rose gold with a blue sunburst dial. And, should you be in need of a touch of extra glamour, there is a Nautilus Haute Joaillerie version with a fully pavéd dial made up of differently sized diamonds. TL

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014, £26,870; patek.com