THE ART OF FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER

ELEANOR STEAFEL Now we’re able to go out, tinkering with dishes when at home feels exciting again

For the first time in months, I’ve had more dinners out than in this past week. The pure thrill of not cooking a proper dinner, not necessarily even eating any dinner – just a bag of salt and vinegar crisps to soak up a couple of hours in the pub, or a late-night round of toast.

I’d forgotten how good it feels to actually miss my flat. To be on the way back, tired, hungry, flicking through the mental Rolodex of what’s in the fridge, pondering what you might be able to rustle up to eat. Now, when I do find myself in for dinner, it feels like a total joy – a relief, even – to be home and cooking.

I’d got into the habit of rolling out the same weeknight dinners. But, lately, making dinner has started to feel exciting again.

I’ve returned to my favourite kind of cooking – the kind with a sense of meandering purpose, where you start with an idea of the dish you want to eat, but with no roadmap for how to get there. The best meals always come, I find, from this kind of trial and error, follow-your-nose cooking.

This dish, made for an outdoor birthday dinner I’m hosting on Friday that I wanted to get ahead and cook the bulk of the day before, is one such meal. It’s perfect for now, because it’s warming but doesn’t feel remotely wintry.

You can cook the ragu the day before (the flavours will only benefit from a day or two to sit), then add the orzo and cook it in the sauce when you want to eat. Serve with plenty of Parmesan and parsley.