CORRECT COURT DRESS SHOWN IN SKETCHES

VEILS, PLUMES AND TRAINS.

A number of ladies, accompanied in some instances by their maids, and by the heads of fashionable dressmaking houses, visited the Ceremonial Department at St. James’s Palace yesterday to examine the sketches of dresses typically correct for the coming Courts. To each visitor was handed the following printed slip

DRESS TO BE WORN BY LADIES AT THEIR MAJESTIES’ COURTS.

Ladies, attending their Majesties’ Courts will wear Court trains, while veils with ostrich feathers will be worn on the head. Three small white feathers, mounted as a Prince of Wales’s plume, the centre feather being a little higher than the two side ones, to be worn slightly on the left-hand side of the head, with the tulle veil attached to the base of the feathers. The veil should not be longer than 45in. Lace lappets may be worn. Coloured feathers are inadmissible, but in cases of deep mourning black feathers may be worn. The train, which should not exceed two yards in length, should not extend more than 18in from the heel of the wearer when standing. This was of great use, as it settles points as regards the hairdressing that have been the subject of much discussion during the past few days. How far would the hairdresser be able to adapt the plumes (which one learnt, incidentally are to be from seven to eight inches in length) to the present very simple styles favoured by girls? The two sketches of debutantes’ or brides’ dresses showed that it can be done most becomingly, as in one case the hair was slightly rolled above the ears with a simple knot behind, and the veil and plumes were the sole ornament. In the second instance there were a few light rouleaux of softly dressed hair, and a jewelled bandeau was worn above the brow. With the two dresses that would be appropriate for those making presentations a tiara was shown in one and handsome jewelled ornaments in the other. No change, it may be mentioned, has been made as to the disposition of the plumes or the length of the veils since the last issued official regulations, which date from January, 1913. For the debutante’s dress white satin or charmeuse is suggested as the foundation. Over this any fine lace or delicately transparent fabric could be draped, either with the suggestion of a long tunic or a scarf falling in straight lines. The waistline is somewhat low, and the girdle can show embroidered flowers, with long trails of flowers falling on either side, or a deep folded belt with a handsome ornament at one side is the alternative. One design shows a fairly wide shoulder strap, the other has a dainty suggestion of a tiny sleeve. The décolletage is rounded, and the trains are hung from the shoulders. As to length, the over-draping falls slightly below the foundation, and “three inches off the ground” brings them to a little above the ankles. One of the more elaborate dresses indicates a foundation of pink charmeuse, with a softly-draped bodice of low-waisted effect drawn in to a handsome ornament, while the train is of silver tissue under scarf-drapings of some transparent fabric, with silver worked borderings. The other is gold and white brocade, with a train of cloth of gold. In both these the décolletage, back and front, shows a distinct V line, which is emphasised by the arrangement of the train hung from the shoulders. A detail of some interest is that handsome feather fans are shown as accompanying these two dresses, while the statement is made that “the carrying of bouquets is optional.”