Reborn English whisky-making shows spirit

Following a revival in gin production, 40 distilleries south of Scottish border are now making ‘Scotch’

THE Scottish have proudly dominated the craft of whisky-making for generations, but now a band of distillers south of the border are reviving a forgotten English industry.

Having raked in handsome profits from a resurgence of gin in recent years, English distilleries have been quietly turning their hands to whisky. From none two decades ago, there are now more than 40 distilleries in England making whisky.

They banded together to form the English Whisky Guild on Wednesday, a trade body that will now set about applying to the Government for a “Geographical Indication” for English whisky.

This will encompass legally binding production standards and regulations.

Dave Smith, chief executive of the Oxford Artisan Distillery, said: “English whisky is an incredibly innovative and creative space. Unlike Scotland which is bound by strict traditions and consequent rules, English whisky is not limited

2003, Hicks & Healey made the first English whisky for a century.

Abbie Neilson, co-founder of Cooper King Distillery in Yorkshire, which makes a single malt whisky, said: “Despite our 19th-century roots and nearly 100 years of production silence, the story of English whisky has only just begun. English whisky is witnessing unprecedented growth, with a tsunami of drinkers across the world discovering and experiencing spirit produced with incredible flavour diversity and to the highest standards.”

Although the market for English whisky is growing, it is still dwarfed by its more mature Scottish cousin.

Dawn Davies, head buyer at The Whisky Exchange, said English whiskies still form just 3 per cent of the products it sells.

“English whisky doesn’t have a particular style yet,” she said.

“It’s still a very young category and trying to find its feet. There’s a lot of experimentation with grains and casks. In Scotland production processes are passed down through families over 50 or 60 years. In England distillers are just starting out so it is more experimental.”

Andrew Nelstrop, the chairman of the English Whisky Guild, said: “English whisky is synonymous with independence, innovation and creativity.

“The formation of the guild and the submission of the GI application supports these shared values whilst also establishing production standards that ensure any whisky labelled as ‘English’ is of the highest quality.

“It also marks a significant step in the long-term development and promotion of English whisky.”

sir – I note that the Metropolitan Police’s investigation into the partygate issue cost £460,000 (Report, May 20) and that 126 fines were issued.

If we are to presume these were of the same magnitude as the Prime Minister’s, they brought in £6,300, so the net cost was more than £450,000. If we add to this the cost of Sue Gray’s inquiry, the total declared expenditure on checking up on events in No 10 must surely exceed £1 million.

Transparency and accountability are important in public life but, as a tax payer, I’d rather see this money spent in more productive areas.

Richard Keates

Loxwood, West Sussex

sir – Nigel Price (Letters, May 20) laments: “There is no Thatcher-inwaiting that I can see, no truly Conservative heir to the throne.” He is overlooking David Frost.

Some years ago, Lord Frost was tasked with the seemingly impossible: to negotiate the UK out of the EU in an orderly manner. He was opposed by two powerful armies – the Brusselsbased bureaucracy, lusting for our huge contributions with precious little in return, and the British Civil Service, which still seeks our re-entry on any terms. He won.

If Lady Thatcher – whom I knew fairly well – were still in Downing Street but nearing the end, I have no doubt that she would elevate him to the Cabinet, secure him a safe seat and groom him for successorship. That no such move exists is because he would reconstruct his Cabinet with fresh talents, and mediocrities are always terrified of such a person.

Frederick Forsyth

Beaconsfield, Buckinghamshire