No celebrities and no logos mark a muted return for Balenciaga
Focus shifts to clothes after backlash against fashion house over scandal of adverts featuring children
PARIS is the home of almost all of the world’s storied fashion houses; Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga ....
However, when the creative director at each establishment presents a new season’s collection, it is always worth remembering that the current occupant is the custodian, not the owner.
The eviction notice was all but issued for Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia in November. The Georgian 41-year-old (who has gone simply by Demna since 2021) was appointed in 2015.
His shock-tactics approach has made him one of the most influential designers working today. He has made profits soar and ensured the Balenciaga logo is recognised and worn globally.
But two advertising campaigns released for the Christmas shopping season ended up placing his future in doubt.
One featured children with teddy bear handbags – but with the bears dressed in what looked like leather bondage harnesses.
The second campaign had actress Isabel Huppert standing over a desk full of paperwork. But zooming in showed the papers included a page from a US Supreme Court ruling on child pornography.
Demna’s lauded celebrity following turned on the brand, condemning all “abuse towards children”, and cutting ties on future deals. The hashtag #Cancelbalenciaga trended on Twitter and Tiktok. In response, Balenciaga withdrew both campaigns. It launched a lawsuit against those who produce its advertising, and issued an apology.
Demna apologised and took responsibility for “the wrong artistic choice”. But who, after all that, might stand by him at Paris Fashion Week yesterday? For his first catwalk collection since the scandal, he didn’t invite any celebrities. There was no lavish set or grand finale parade. There also wasn’t a logo in sight – a U-turn from the man who would once wrap models in branded tape and call it a catsuit. “Fashion, to me, can no longer be seen as an entertainment, but rather as the art of making clothes,” he said.
Tailoring was his main focus and he inventively reworked trousers into jackets, and made new statements about double denim, by layering pairs of jeans.
He inflated motorbike leathers to freakish proportions, explaining the wearer could inflate or deflate them to the level they wanted.
“I spent days at home during the most difficult moments,” he said. “I found shelter in cutting and stitching.” François-henri Pinault, chief executive of Kering, which owns Balenciaga, came backstage to congratulate Demna vocally. Will he continue to stand by him? It surely depends on whether a new muted Balenciaga, with no buzz, will keep profits high. Ultimately, it’s up to the public. Will you continue to buy those logo-emblazoned trainers, bags and scarves?