Putting the T in Taiwan
by Phyllis Stephen
I really did not know before I visited that they grew tea in Taiwan. I knew it was the world's largest manufacturer of semiconductor chips and that it boasts the largest number and density of high mountains. But I had no idea about the tea.
The history of tea begins properly on mainland China, spreading across the world with international trade. At the Pinglin Tea Museum they took us through the history of tea on the island, and how it became one of the three big exports during the Qing dynasty, along with sugar and camphor.
These were the three treasures the national economy clearly depended on in the 19th century. Tea exports grew from 82 metric tonnes in 1865 to a staggering 8,210 metric tonnes by 1894. Tea was attractive to both Chinese and foreign tea merchants and the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 was important in allowing Taiwanese tea to reach New York.
It was a Scottish businessman, John Dodd, who pioneered the tea trade in Taiwan. He arrived in 1865 to investigate trade opportunities and discovered that the north of the country was perfect for planting tea. He introduced
Fujian Anxi tea to the hills around Taipei and refined it using fairly sophisticated production equipment before selling it in the US. Formosa Oolong tea became the tea of choice, although
Chin Shin Oolong has been cultivated longest in the country's mountains.
Sadly the Japanese occupation of WW2 spelled the end of the glorious era of tea and today the country's tea exports total around £100 million.
We learned that only the tips of the leaves are picked and that each tea plant might be harvested four times a year - although the best tea is generally picked in the winter before March. Tea picked in summer is more bitter.
We were told that the smell of tea is everything - if the smell is rancid or sour then it may indicate poor quality. We were invited to experience different aromas with a nifty device on the wall which puffed across the top of some tea leaves to send the tea aroma our way. We tasted some very lovely tea made with huge green leaves in a glass teapot in very small cups, such as you would find in a Chinese restaurant here - the pot was refilled several times allowing each cup to be slightly weaker.
Then there's bubble tea. We visited the home of Bubble
Tea - where it all started - Chun Shui Tang - where the gorgeous tea (blended with milk or fruit juices) was only surpassed by the excellent food served - but that is another story all of its own!
I was a guest of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Republic of China (Taiwan) for six days on a tourism and culture trip. We were extremely well looked after by Vincent, Rachel and Happy who ensured that we got to each destination on time. Taiwanese are punctual we found out - and extremely friendly. Much of our time was spent eating and here are the recollections of some of my companions :
Johnna French is a Washington DC based food expert who writes Johnna Knows Good Food. She said : “I thoroughly enjoyed the dumplings from the original Din Tai Fung. The thin, delicate dough was the perfect contrast to the bold flavors that were hidden inside the dumplings. Because of the relationship between tea and the Taiwanese culture, The Pinglin Tea Museum was another favourite.”
Elise Kirsten writes for South African title Getaway from Cape Town. She wrote: “Taiwan is a tea drinker's heaven and as
I'm addicted to the stuff, I was delighted to enjoy the island's Oolong tea at the Pingling Tea Museum. The warm pearl milk tea from the store where bubble tea originated was also a hit. There's a playful element to spooning up the black tapioca balls, some of which spilt over my teaspoon and drifted down to the depths of my mug, only to be stirred up by the 'currents' as I fished for more.”
Lisa Kadane is a freelance travel writer. She said: “A highlight for me was the food - I didn’t realise there are so many must-try dishes, from soup dumplings to stinky tofu. Ditto the bubble tea. I loved the people. I’ve never felt so welcome, or safe, as I did in Taiwan. I’ve also never had a stranger share guava and tomatoes with me on top of a mountain. It was definitely worthwhile to get out of the city and hike in Yangmingshan National Park, and neat to see so many Taiwanese out in nature without any face masks!”
Dean Nestor travelled all the way from St Lucia. He was not as keen on the food as he was on the Bubble Tea which he loved. He enjoyed this part best though. He said: “The most surreal experience was that unforgettable journey at the i-Ride Experience Centre. an unforgettable if nervewracking ride through many of Taiwan’s major attractions. It was incredible.”
* The Editor travelled to Taiwan as part of a group of journalists invited by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Republic of China (Taiwan).