Floating my boat
Juliet embarks on culinary cruise at Fingal
IT’S BEEN A glamorous time for me of late.
I’m far from a restaurant snob and thoroughly enjoy casual dining. In fact one of my favourite eating spots is the aromatic but basic Desi Pakwan at the bottom of Leith Walk. The food’s terrific and the atmosphere often buzzing, what’s not to like? That said it’s nice to get (I believe the technical term is) ‘dolled up’.
Few women I know do elegant glamour better than my mum who has never let Edinburgh’s lack of lustre diminish her dazzle. When I was invited to try dinner at The Fingal it felt like a chance for the two of us to experience the luxury ingrained in our DNA.
The Fingal, moored at Alexandra Dock, is a former lighthouse service ship that has been transformed into a luxury floating hotel, already buoyed up by a host of awards. If you’re lucky enough to spend the night you’ll find your room to be named after one of the lighthouses the ship serviced, where the cream-coloured leather headboard is embossed with the map of that very spot. All I could think when I attended their opening tour was that my fake-tan stains would look fantastic on that.
On a Tuesday night the restaurant on The Fingal certainly has a buzz. With a mix of local diners and residents it thankfully avoids the often dull ‘hotel restaurant’ feel. The space is artfully broken up and the low ceiling with its underwater effect finish adds a sense of intimacy. Upon boarding the red-carpeted gangplank you immediately experience a sense of ‘first class here we come!’. The charming manager welcoming us uses the word ‘Ma’am’, and not sparingly either. The service is just the right mix of friendly charm and gregarious formality so nobody need feel patronised or disrespected. It’s a true art form.
My mum claims to be a fussy eater, but in reality she merely prefers her lily ungilded. When it comes to Fingal’s menu, I like the cut of its gib with four choices for each course and everything presented deliciously accomplished, but refreshingly uncomplicated. You could take granny and a gourmand here and they’d both be impressed.
We began with some delightfully warm ship-baked bread with a luxurious round of Edinburgh Butter Company silky richness. Mummy opted for the Norfolk Asparagus
Hollandaise, aged Comte and Watercress, the asparagus cooked to perfection and the Hollandaise just the right balance of richness and acidity. I chose the Fingal’s own Hot Smoked Salmon, Herb Cream Cheese, Cucumber Relish, Buckwheat Blinis - lovely flakes of rich salmon with a balance of flavours that were sublime, wouldn’t have minded a few extra Blinis though. For main course Mum had a juicy wedge of Goosnargh Chicken, Pearl Couscous, Sweet Potato, Baby Spinach, Madeira Sauce. I had the Rump of Lamb, Merguez Sausage, Yoghurt and Wild Garlic, unctuous dishes, both. The portions were too much for us, both being on the petit side. Although more statuesque types won’t be requiring a (I believe the technical term is) a ‘chippy’ on the way home. We enjoyed the ambience for a while before sharing a dessert of White Chocolate and Pistachio Parfait, Blueberry Mouse with Nut Granola. The mixture of flavours and textures was an exciting way to end a lovely dinner. Considering the quality of the ingredients, superb cooking skills and magical experience, it’s a 10/10 ‘Ahoy Mateys’ from me.