Philippa’s Guide to GROWING DAHLIAS

Pot tubers up in compost in March and bring the plants on in an unheated glasshouse, before hardening them o and planting out once all threat of frost has passed. I have also had a lot of success with planting tubers directly, in situ, at the end of April or beginning of

May. They’re timed to be below ground two to three weeks in advance of the predicted last frost date, thus avoiding exposure. This saves a huge amount of time and e ort and totally negates the need for a glasshouse. Their flowers appear later but are equally plentiful.

Add fish, blood and bone or chicken manure pellets to each planting hole and water in each tuber or plant. A layer of manure-based mulch provides extra food, keeps in moisture and suppresses weeds.

Pea and bean netting, strung across the bed and held by stout hedge-laying posts, supports more heavy-headed plants.

A foliar liquid seaweed spray will help promote better-quality blooms once flowering begins.

Dahlia flowers do not continue to open once cut, so the best time to pick your blooms is when they have fully opened. For the single varieties, cutting before the pollen is set will give a longer vase life. As with all cut flowers, it is best to harvest in either early morning or late afternoon and evening to avoid the heat of the day.

Regular deadheading will help to encourage more blooms.

Cut down dahlias after the first frost, then lift the tubers and tip them upside down to get the moisture out of the stalks. Overwinter tubers in cardboard boxes, covered with dry wood shavings and placed in a frostfree, unheated outbuilding.

Wait to divide any large tubers that need splitting until March – bigger clumps overwinter better when they are left intact.