Grow Chrysanthemums for Cutting
TAKING CUTTINGS
■ In February or March take basal cuttings from the new shoots of overwintered mother plants. Remove 10-15cm long stocky shoots with a clean, sharp knife and put into individual pots filled with gritty seed compost with added perlite to aid drainage.
■ Water the cuttings lightly and cover with polythene to keep moisture in (Rachel uses lightweight, recycled dry-cleaning bags). Keep in a frost-free glasshouse, place on a heat mat or use a heated propagator on a bright windowsill, but not in direct sunlight. Water sparingly but don’t let the cuttings dry out. Once rooted, after two to three weeks, remove the polythene.
■ Alternatively, order in rooted cuttings from good suppliers such as Sarah Raven, Halls of Heddon, Woolmans or Chrysanthemums Direct.
GROWING ON
■ Pot the rooted cuttings on into 9cm pots filled with potting mix and grow on in a bright, frost-free glasshouse until 30cm tall. Keep plants well-spaced and ventilated, because they can be prone to rust at this stage. If rust pustules form on the leaves, remove all aected foliage or destroy aected plants.
Chrysanthemums should be pinched out – if not you will end up with very tall, topheavy plants prone to windrock and blowing over. Cut back to 15cm to encourage multiple branching stems. If you want more plants you can treat the cut-o tops as stem cuttings: cut below a node, strip the bottom leaves and propagate the tops as per basal cuttings.
■ In a polytunnel, plant out in beds from mid-May to midJune. Outside, harden o earlies before planting in a well-drained, sheltered, sunny site – but only once all risk of frost has passed. Plant laterflowering varieties in big pots that can be moved indoors if frost threatens.
■ For cutting, space plants 45cm apart in the row with 45cm between the rows so each plant has equal access to light, water, and feed.
■ Inside, stretch taut two layers of 15cm square pea and bean netting between stout posts across the bed at 50cm high and again at 1m for support. Outside, use nets or stake or cane plants individually.
■ Apply high-potash fertiliser once plants start flowering for top-quality, long-flowering blooms. Deadhead if you’re not picking them regularly.
OVERWINTERING
■ Cut back top growth at the end of October or November when plants are running out of steam and, if growing inside, lift the best specimens to overwinter before propagating in spring. Outside, lift or leave in the ground, covered with a generous mulch of compost.
Place lifted rootballs (technically known as ‘stools’) in crates that are lined with perforated plastic. Cover with compost to overwinter in a frost-free, unheated greenhouse, garage or shed.