reaping the harvest

make the most of those rich, comforting autumn ingredients, says Philippa Davis, combining apples and squash with glorious game

autumn’s harvest is rich in colour, scent and flavour and as the weather cools we are naturally tempted into eating the heartier and more nourishing food that’s so abundant right now. this month’s recipes may seem a little time consuming but they are worth the effort and give you an excuse to loiter in your warm kitchen. there is a tasty hare and homemade gnocchi recipe that showcases two of the season’s biggest stars, squash and wild mushrooms, plus slow-cooked pheasant with chickpeas and herbs – the perfect comfort food. I have also given a recipe for apple butter, a concentrated apple purée; great if you have a bumper crop. I don’t see it often in the uk, which is surprising given how many apples we have, but it is popular in the netherlands and the usa. Despite the name, it doesn’t contain butter but it does have a smooth and rich consistency perfect for lashing on toast and crumpets.