Wild fish in virgin water
Many of Scotland’s remotest lochs haven’t seen a rod for generations, so take to the water to encounter the beautiful wild trout they hold
Stan Headley takes to a boat on Scotland’s remotest lochs
We were in the wilderness known as the Flow Country in Caithness. There was a quad bike to make the journey to Loch nam Fear feasible and I experienced as much excitement and adventure just getting to the loch edge as I would expect from a day’s fishing – grit your teeth, relax your body, hang on and everything will be just fine. That was the mantra I repeated to myself as we bounced and slithered to the loch’s edge. Dismounting by the side of the pretty loch, I gathered myself together, rigged up my gear and had a long look round. I was going to boat-fish a loch that hadn’t seen fly or a rod in a couple of generations. I was excited.
REOPENING TO THE PUBLIC
It was exhilarating to see so much fish sign, with rises all over the loch but mostly along the rocky western shoreline. Small and shallow, nam Fear was a delight to fish even though the breeze was light and variable all day. These trout hadn’t seen a fisherman or fly for decades, with our visit heralding its long-awaited reopening to the public.
Given all the fish sign that we were seeing, I had no compunction in dispatching the first fish to come to hand. A loch that hasn’t been fished for nigh on 30 years is a blank canvas and I felt an overwhelming desire to fill in what blanks I could. The marrow spoon showed a good diet of midge pupae, pea mussels and a scattering of unidentifiable – to the naked eye – insects and nymphs. That there were mysterious bugs in there was of little surprise. This was a unique, unexplored environment. I wouldn’t be at all surprised to
learn that there were new-to-science invertebrates jumbled in the mix.
The trout were some of the most beautiful specimens I have ever seen. We caught a good few, none of them under a pound and the best just under 2lb. That’s not to say it was easy. Fishing near-flat, calm conditions is always difficult for surface-active trout. We could hardly blame over-fishing for the reluctance of the trout to accept our offerings. During our short visit we hooked and lost quite a few superb fish. I defy you to resist the temptation not to cast a line here.
wild fish potential
Millions of years ago, two tectonic plates crashed into one another. The exposed portions of which formed what is now referred to as Britain: one side England, the other Scotland. They brought dissimilar geological factors to this nation of ours, which now define the wild fish potential of each country.
One of the interesting and relevant differences is that here in Scotland we don’t understand the term “hosepipe ban”. We view it as an alien concept similar to Morris dancing. Winter, spring, summer
We hooked and lost a few, and netted five – every one the epitome of a wild trout
and autumn we get rain, often far too much of it. The indigenous trout, however, are not complaining.
The western and northern sectors of Scotland have so many lochs and rivers that even the most dedicated fisherman would probably fail to fish them all in an extended lifetime. Indeed, some areas of the west have more surface water area than land. Staggering, but true. A visiting angler can – as happened to me – potentially find him/ herself fishing on a loch that hasn’t seen a trout fly for decades.
Brown trout flourish all over the world, particularly in temperate climes, but only in the Celtic countries are they sought after from boats on still water as a first option. And, I have to say, not only has it become an artform but we Celts are bloody good at it. Catching wild fish from a free-drifting boat is a passion for many and I believe there is no finer way to fly fish. It offers a conviviality that most other forms of fly-fishing lack. That loch fishing in Scotland occurs in
some of the world’s finest scenery only adds to the joy of the sport.
There is a common misconception that Scottish wild trout are perfect breakfast fare, being in the four-to-a-pound class. I suspect this slanderous untruth has been generated by those who have had difficulty catching anything but suicidal juveniles. I have caught wild trout in Scottish lochs up to 10lb, while friends have scored even higher. But to catch trout of this stamp necessitates one being in the right place at the right time. It is hard for the inexperienced holidaying angler to meet these essential criteria, and that is why I have devoted a large part of my life to doing the homework that helps the novice make the right moves.
high quality
There are areas of Scotland where it is difficult to go wrong, so high is the general quality of the fishing available. The Western and Northern Isles rate highly in this category, as do Caithness, Sutherland and the Lochaber region. In these parts, wild brown trout of 2lb-plus are barely worthy a mention. There are, of course, individual lochs outwith the regions named above that are famous worldwide. Loch Leven is looked upon by many as a mecca for wild trout.
As a general guide, the areas of Scotland that produce the best trout also tend to be notable for their agricultural importance, Orkney and Caithness being prime examples. The fertility of the land is reflected in its lochs. And water fertility means more food and fat, fast-growing, healthy fish. The machair lands of the Western Isles are not particularly important for agriculture but they do produce real quality trout in the associated lochs. This is because the beautifully blossomed machair lands are created from deposited shell sand, and it tends to create a positive ph factor with loads of dissolved minerals that boost invertebrate food items for fish.
But what is the attraction of wild brown trout fishing? Apart from the fact that it generally takes place in some of the world’s finest scenery, it is an extremely visual branch of fishing. Browns prefer shallow water. They are designed for it and in good weather conditions almost every take or offer can be seen happening in the surface layers. Most
fishing is done with floating lines and relatively light rods, and hooked trout jump and splash – the fights are exhilarating.
As I have mentioned, most of this very traditional form of fly-fishing is carried out from boats and, as such, is a suitable pastime for the very young and those who may be a bit old and infirm, never mind the perfectly fit. I always advise the relative novices, whether in the art or to the area, to get local advice. Time is a precious commodity these days and can be irretrievably wasted doing the wrong thing in the wrong places. Visit the local angling shops for advice on fly patterns, permits and contact details for guides or gillies. This will set you up to get a positive result for your efforts from day one. Struggling to get things right without advice can see the bulk of your holiday wasted, a frustrating and dispiriting business.
tackle and flies
The other pleasant aspect of Scottish loch fishing is the tackle and flies used. As stated above, the equipment used to catch fish is a delight to operate. Because a drifting boat will take you to the fish, there is absolutely no need for long-distance casting, so rods and lines can be light, which is advantageous for the young and old. Traditional trout flies are pretty things and have none of the often garish appearance of those used for stocked rainbow trout. Having said that, a small range of dry flies that may stem from stocked water fisheries won’t go amiss.
There is a branch of loch fishing that gets very little mention these days: salmon and sea-trout. All fishermen are aware that there has been a marked decline in migratory fish throughout the UK and this is also true in Scotland. However, there are areas and water systems that make reward very likely for applied fishing effort, mostly in the Western Isles and along the Atlantic seaboard.
To catch big, bright, silvery fish with trout gear (which is all you need) is the cream of the sport. My biggest-ever catch of fresh salmon in one short day took place on Loch Scourst in North Harris, on the Amhuinnsuidhe estate, under the expert scrutiny of Ian “Jonesy” Jones. We discovered a “pod”of salmon surrounding a weed bed in open water, and every time we drifted onto it a salmon or two would lunge at the flies. Although there was no intent to kill a fish, and every one caught was safely
If you like fishing from a boat, head to the hills and glens of Scotland
returned to the water, there was small tear ejected and a sad sigh when a crafty individual slipped the hook and headed off, unseen, for an early bath.
Other than Amhuinnsuidhe, which is, perhaps, the pick of the bunch, excellent salmon and sea-trout lochs can be found in North and South Uist, Lewis and Sutherland. The north coast of Sutherland still produces excellent sea-trout fishing, primarily Lochs Dionard and Hope. On the latter loch, a friend and I caught and released 30 sea-trout in a three-day session, an event unlikely to be equalled by any other water in the UK or Ireland.
So, if you like fishing from a boat, conviviality, stunning scenery, beautiful fish – and plenty of them – then I suggest you head north to the hills and glens of Scotland and its isles. There is room for all of you and a wide range of adventures laid on for those who don’t fish. Scotland as a tourist resort grows in popularity with every passing year and it’s not difficult to work out why. There are ancient castles to search, wondrous hills to climb, deserted wilderness to explore, beautiful sandy beaches to wander and, of course, the very best of wild lochs to fish.