Shooting clays can improve your game
Whilst a clay day will not exactly replicate time on the peg it is good practice – and could become an enjoyable activity in its own right
It is good practice and an enjoyable activity, writes Michael Yardley
How often have you heard a game shot dismiss clay shooting as useful practice because “clays slow down, birds don’t”? Well, a friend who’s in a national Sporting clays squad and an excellent game shot observed: “Game shooters are right when they say clays slow down. Yet when you transition from clays to partridges when the season starts you may start by missing in front. Why? Because despite slowing down, most clays are under full power and quicker than gamebirds in the window in which you have to shoot them.” Bearing this in mind, clays are a real challenge. I’m always trying to persuade other game shots that regular sessions on them should not be seen as the preserve of competitive claybusters nor confined to the odd charity day. Approached correctly in the right relaxed but focused way, clay shooting may become much like golf or tennis – a satisfying leisure activity in its own right and one that will pay general sporting dividends.
An experienced game shot should be hitting more than 50% of the clays presented Many game shots feel a bit uncomfortable with clays. They may have a go, not hit much and abandon the pitch discs to ‘the professionals’. This is a mistake. First, everyone misses clays initially – there is no other way to learn. Any experienced and competent game shot should, however, be hitting 50% to 60% plus in short order (especially if helped with a bit of preliminary instruction at a good shooting school).
Clay shooting will not only maintain gameshooting skills but will improve them significantly. You can experiment in a way that would be impossible in the field. Clays offer an ideal environment to improve style and to explore such things as gun hold, stance and forward allowance. Different techniques may be tried – swing through, maintained lead, spot shooting – in a variety of situations. You can confirm your eye dominance and refine gun fit. And it is great fun.
What type of clay shooting is most useful? There are three main forms. ‘Trap’ has its origins in live pigeon contests and has retained a similar layout, with shooters usually standing 16 yards back from the trap or traps. ‘Sporting’ grew from the simulating of quarry species developed at English gunmakers’ schools and is now a competitive sport in itself. ‘Skeet’ was developed by two US grouse hunters, Charles Davies and
William Foster. They positioned two traps either end of a semi-circle allowing for the replication of nearly all the angles that might be encountered walking-up grouse.
Skeet and Sporting, in particular, are excellent practice for game shots. There is a qualification, however: if your main purpose is to improve field performance, you will be best advised to shoot them ‘gun down’ – out of the shoulder – not gun-up as the serious clay boys most frequently do (with the exceptions of Olympic Skeet and FITASC Sporting).
A skeet range is a great place to practise the crossing and quartering shots you frequently encounter at pigeon, grouse and when roughshooting. You do not need a specialised clay gun; our aim, remember, is not winning competitions but enjoyment and useful field practice. (It’s worth noting, however, that the 2019 Inter Livery Charity Clay Shoot at Holland & Holland’s shooting grounds – with well over 300 competitors – was won by a Gunmakers’ team using hammerguns made more than 100 years ago.)
Having noted we are using the clays to practise gameshooting, it nevertheless needs to be realised that the techniques required to shoot clays and birds successfully do differ. Clay shooting demands more pre-shot preparation to do well (and whilst accepting that we are doing this primarily to hone gameshooting skills, it’s still satisfying to put in a decent card at a charity shoot).
TRAP SHOOTING
This discipline, the oldest clay shoot, is a bit alien to most game shots. Nevertheless, it can produce very useful practice for anyone who shoots walked-up birds. Whatever position you are on – there are five arranged in an arc – set yourself up to an imaginary point about 50 yards forward of the trap house. Hold your gun on the top edge of the trap house or just above. Soft focus 10 yards or so forward. Call for the target. Focus fast. Don’t hesitate. But don’t move the gun until you are hard focused on the emerging bird.
Earlier advice not withstanding, I would suggest shooting gun-up at least until you have
Clays offer an ideal environment to improve style and to explore gun hold, stance and forward allowance
mastered the basics. Pre-mount the gun pointing at about 30 degrees above the trap house before coming down to your central hold position (or as you prefer). When you have got the hang of it, you can shoot trap gun-down. In Scandinavia, where they shoot most game walked-up, they call this ‘hunter’s clays’.
SKEET
Skeet offers a perfect opportunity to experiment with conscious and deliberate lead systems. It will quickly demonstrate how different pictures are required for different birds. You may shoot skeet on visual contact alone – relying on hard refined focus to unlock natural hand-to-eye coordination without conscious consideration and measurement – or you may find it interesting to use deliberate measured lead, opening up the gaps as you move from station to station.
I will mention three target presentations that can confound. The high bird from Station 1 is often missed above and to the side. Shoot it on the bottom edge over the centre of the layout (do not let it go much past this point). If you have persistent difficulty try squinting the eye opposite the rib. Station 2 High requires an atypical approach. Set the feet to take it over the mid point of the range. Muzzles should go back exactly halfway to the trap house. Take the eyes halfway back again, not all the way to the trap. Call for the bird and shoot it on the front edge without hesitation. Rushing will cause misses in front or premature stopping (and misses behind). Again, with persistent problems try squinting as you take the shot.
The pair in the middle can also cause issues. The first bird needs to be shot quickly, the second is frequently missed in front and over in a panic caused by two birds being in the air simultaneously (it may also be missed behind by those who hesitate). My usual advice is shoot the first by any technique that allows you to nail it rapidly, then immediately attack the second. My preferred deliberate sight picture is the bottom front edge of the clay. So, for first bird be calm but quick, then take the second on the front edge or just in front before it drops. Unlike the first, it is not a true crosser.
SPORTING
I use, and teach, what I call the Positive Shooting System as a simple method to hit clay targets consistently, but the basic principle of visual contact and good foot position is applicable to game, too. It was developed after I studied what most successful performers do (though they may not be consciously aware of it). Positive Shooting splits the act of shooting into two stages: preparation and performance.
Preparation stage
1) Stand to where you want to kill the bird (rear foot at about 90 degrees for most people). This should be your point of minimum body tension.
2) Wind back, gun down, to the point where you first see the bird clearly (where you first see it as a solid object) keeping the muzzles just under the line.
3) Take the eyes back to the area where you first see the clay as a blur (not to the trap). Performance stage
1) Having visualised a break (optional), call for the target with confidence.
2) Lock your vision onto it and refine hard focus as you swing. The muzzles will naturally move to and in front of the mark.
3) Pull the trigger and then follow through smoothly.
Positive Shooting is a developed, instinctive method. You do not need to consider forward allowance consciously – it will be applied naturally because you have facilitated hand-to-eye coordination. Remember: where do I want to kill it? Where do I first see it as a blurr? Where do I first see it as a solid object? (If you do not succeed with the Positive Shooting system, try this instead: take the muzzles to the bird deliberately and push ahead without prolonged tracking. I call this Point and Push. Still apply good preshot preparation and focus discipline.)
I generally stick to the Positive Shooting system for Sporting but there can be exceptions – no single technique will take you all the way round a Sporting course. When faced with pairs, I would generally set up for the harder target and endeavour to take it first if possible. Your feet may have to be set up to a compromise position if there is a challenging pair and little time to move. Always pay close attention to the position of your feet; bad footwork will cost you birds.
When you miss, consider why and change what you do. Longer crossing birds will usually be missed behind but this is not absolute (especially for those with eye issues). Quartering and close driven birds are often missed in front and over the top. Rabbits cause all sorts of problems. Try shooting them on the bottom edge. If that does not work and you are not connecting at all, squint an eye as you take the shot – often a magic cure for bunny blues.
With teal, another atypical presentation, I would advise shooting gun-up (which may also be the best way to shoot rangy, quartering birds and rabbits). A simple gun-up method for teal is: mount onto the intended break point mid sky, wind exactly halfway down the imaginary flight line. Call for the bird. Keep the eyes glued to it, lift the gun into the target without check or hesitation. Bang! Don’t think too much – have confidence.
Not all clay shooting is conducted at charity shoots and small, local affairs. Few of these offer proper driven targets because of safety concerns with broken clays. But all shooting schools offer driven targets and we are blessed with the best schools and some of the best instructors in the world.
On the towers, the secret (and one definitely transferable to the field) is to keep pushing, to keep lifting the gun. And remember line is as important as lead. As far as forward allowance is concerned, be bold. Many times, I have seen people simply amazed at how much lead the really high birds require. With the simulated grouse, ‘remember grouse wear spats’, so don’t shoot high and be careful not to shoot in front, which is easily done, too. Above all, with all forms of clay shooting, as with gameshooting, stare each bird to death and keep the gun moving. Don’t rush. Don’t ride. Don’t stop. Perfect visual contact and smooth movement are the keys to consistent success. Michael Yardley is a Fellow of the Association of Professional Shooting Instructors.
With all forms of clay shooting, stare each bird to death and keep the gun moving