FROM THE ARCHIVES
On the menu during the war
FOOD RATIONING
We have much for which to be thankful in this matter of food rationing, and, as yet little cause for real complaint. Economy with efficiency has become a trite saying, but it is nonetheless desirable, and never more so than at this time. Let us supply the economy and hope the Ministry will ensure the efficiency part of it. We can play a by no means unimportant part by assisting the Government in their rationing proposals. We shall be doing what lies in our power to help to win the war. If we must grumble – let us do it with the best possible grace.
Meanwhile, at this initial stage of official rationing, we should do well to adopt the slogan ‘waste nothing’.
Taken from The Field, 13 January 1940
SOME ‘OFF THE RATION’ DISHES FOR DECEMBER
KIDNEYS ON TOAST
Put some kidneys through the mincer, using the fine plate. Season with salt, pepper and a little lemon essence. Place in a saucepan and toss the mixture in a little fat until it is very hot. Then mix with water, sufficient dried egg to equal one whole egg. Beat up and stir into the kidneys, cook for a few more minutes and serve on thin slices of toast. Personally, I dislike crusts on toast.
SHEEP’S HEAD
Allow to soak for three hours, then split the head. Remove the brains and tongue, replace the head in the water, add carrot, onion, celery and a little herb and parsley root, pepper and salt. Bring to the boil, skim and allow to simmer gently for three hours. Boil the brains separately in salted water. Arrange altogether on one dish, garnishing with carrot and a little parsley.
CELERY AU GRATIN
Prepare the celery and choose good white hearts. Make half a pint of white sauce by placing half a pint of milk on to boil; when boiling, stir in sufficient cornflour to thicken, cook for a few minutes stirring all the time. Stir in sufficient grated cheese to taste. Season with salt and pepper.
Arrange the celery hearts in a greased fireproof dish, over which pour the white sauce, and bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned. It is difficult to give a quantity of cheese as it varies so much in flavour, but you will certainly have to use far more than the parmesan which you used before the war.
Taken from The Field, 5 December 1942
BOILED PHEASANT
It is essential, if the bird is to be boiled successfully, that it be carefully plucked so that the skin is not broken. Drop the bird in a saucepan of boiling water to which a little salt has been added. After a few minutes skim carefully. It should be cooked in about 30 minutes. The bird should be served as soon as possible after being cooked and drained. I rather like braised celery as an accompanying vegetable.
Taken from The Field, 31 October 1942
EEL PIE
Skin and wash three pounds of eels. Then cut into three-inch pieces and place in a stewpan together with a walnut of cooking fat or margarine, salt and a few cloves.
Add half a pint of water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer for 10 minutes. Then place a layer of the fish on the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of sliced onion, forcemeat and tomato. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and a little cayenne and parsley root. Cover with short crust and bake in a fairly quick oven until the crust is cooked.
I suppose some people would recommend potato pastry but, personally, I see little in it to recommend. It has not a nice flavour, it takes more fat than even wholemeal flour, and in my opinion it does not make a satisfactory crust. The chief disadvantage, however, to my mind, of potato pastry is that it requires more fat to get the same rise from the mixture.
The chief point to be watched when cooking eels is not to overcook them, otherwise they become soft and pappy.
I am sure that is the main reason why they are not too popular in this country.
Taken from The Field, 27 June 1942
ECONOMICAL HARE SOUP
To use odd pieces of hare, which have been left over, together with the head, hare soup may be made very cheaply.
Trim up the pieces and stew in a good stock with five medium-sized onions, with a clove stuck in each, four blades of mace, two bay leaves, a little parsley root chopped up small, a little thyme, marjoram and celery, if you have any. Bring to the boil, season with salt and pepper, skim. Simmer gently for 1½ hours. Make up the desired quantity with stock.
If you wish the soup to be thick, pound up any cooked potatoes and put into the soup when thoroughly mashed. Be careful not to put in too much potato or the result will be more like sludge than soup. Correct the seasoning, simmer for another ½ hour, skim and strain the soup and serve hot. If the soup is allowed to become cool it will taste very thick and heavy.
The above recipe, besides being very economical with the hare, uses no cooking fat as no roux is made. If the soup is not sufficiently dark in colour add meat extract sufficient to colour. Browning made from burnt sugar should not be used as it will entirely destroy the hare flavour.
Taken from The Field, 12 December 1942
Split the sheep’s head, remove the brains and tongue
A DOG’S WAR-TIME DINNER
Most butchers have trimmings, offal and odd pieces of meat that are not fit for human consumption, though quite suitable for the kennel.
Pigs’ and sheep’s trotters can, I believe, be stewed to a wholesome jelly. Cods’ heads, though perhaps not so appetising, can be given, first being boiled until the bones are softened. Herrings, boned and cooked, are regarded as dainty fare by some dogs.
Bullocks’ blood, that would otherwise go down the drains, is nutritious, but should not be given in large quantities. It may be mixed with biscuits or meals. Of course, in rural districts where rabbits are numerous, nothing better could be desired. Very occasionally I used to take heads of poultry from the poulterer. When well boiled they make a useful gravy, but it is rather rich. Taken from The Field, 10 February 1940