Going for greens

Broad beans, peas and asparagus bring a verdant buzz to the kitchen this month, says Philippa Davis, making full use of this seasonal excess

I HAVE mixed emotions about broad beans and certainly wasn’t always delighted to see the first basketful of the year. As a child, I disliked them immensely and always made sure the family dog was quietly sat at my feet to help me through the mountain on my plate. Then, when I moved to London and started work as a chef at The River Café I remember how the excitement buzzed through the team when the first wooden crates of broad beans and peas arrived at the door. Along with artichokes, asparagus and soft fruits the kitchen suddenly felt in full seasonal mode with summer food swiftly promising to make an appearance.

Then there was the time I ran a café on Mudchute city farm and one of the young actors working front of house misheard my request to ‘shuck’ them for ‘chuck’ them. Amusing now; less so at the time.

Venison

2 x 200g venison leg

steaks

Marinade

1 large clove garlic, crushed with salt 2 tbsp dry cider + a splash

extra for deglazing 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 tsp finely chopped

rosemary

2 tbsp olive oil, for cooking

Braised potatoes

30g butter

2 tbsp olive oil 2 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 1 tbsp finely chopped

rosemary 4 rashers smoked streaky bacon, sliced into 2cm

pieces

300g new potatoes, sliced

in half

250ml dry cider

100g peas

100g broad beans 100g asparagus, cut into

4cm lengths

3 tbsp chopped parsley

and chopped mint

8-10 SLICES

SERVES 2

The braised potatoes and spring vegetables in cider and bacon make an excellent side dish and are perfect for a roast joint of meat or fish.

Mix the marinade ingredients together then toss through the steaks.

Leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Place the butter, oil, garlic, rosemary and bacon in a saucepan on a medium/low heat. Sauté until the bacon begins to go golden and crispy then add in the potatoes and 200ml cider. Season well, place a lid on and simmer gently for about 20 minutes or

You will need a 25cm (10in) loose-bottomed, fluted, tart tin and some baking beans.

Roll out the pastry, line the tart tin and blind bake until golden. Leave to cool completely.

In a bowl, whisk the yolks, sugar, cinnamon and cornflour to combine.

Heat the milk in a pan until it just comes to a simmer.

Whisk in half the hot milk to the yolks then pour this into the milk pan.

On a low heat whisk the mix until thick then cook for a further 4 minutes to cook out the flour.

Scoop into a bowl, leave to cool then cover and chill until cold (about 2 hours). until the potatoes are cooked. Add in the beans, peas and asparagus, season again and cook for another 4 minutes with the lid on.

Stir through the herbs and the rest of the cider and check the seasoning. Keep warm.

In a hot pan fry the venison steaks in the oil on both sides

Once cold, whisk in the vanilla, Cointreau and orange zest (don’t be tempted to add extra Cointreau or your custard will become too loose).

Whip double cream until thick then fold through the egg mix. for a couple of minutes, or to your liking. Leave to rest for 2 minutes while you deglaze the pan with a splash of cider.

Slice the steaks and serve with a bowlful of warm braised potatoes and veg with their juice.

Spoon into the pastry shell. Cover with the strawberries then brush with the jelly and sprinkle over the icing sugar and cinnamon.

Best eaten on the day it’s made. 1 x 300g sweet shortcrust pastry

Filling

5 free-range/organic medium egg yolks 100g caster sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon

30g cornflour

350ml milk

1 tsp vanilla bean

paste

2 tbsp Cointreau 1 orange, zest only 250ml double cream

Strawberries

800g strawberries 2 tbsp melted jelly or jam without big lumps of fruit (strawberry or redcurrant work well)

Dusting

½ tsp cinnamon mixed with ½ tsp

icing sugar