Christmas cheer in a bottle
While compromises may be reached over many elements of the big day, the need for a constant flow of alcoholic refreshment is non-negotiable, says Jonathan Ray, who has all bases covered
I’VE spoken in these pages before about CADDAD – Christmas Affected Doom, Depression And Despondency – and my struggles with this wretched, littleunderstood condition. Having done some research, I conclude that at least 10% of the population is similarly afflicted and that it is hereditary. My father had it badly and, at 19 and 21, my two sons are showing the unmistakable signs of succumbing, too, the poor lambs. There should be a helpline. Mrs Ray, of course, is having none of it. When I suggested that our symptoms would improve dramatically if we did without the Christmas tree this year or even fled abroad, she replied that certain things were not open to discussion and muttered dark threats about me needing to stop being such a spoilsport.
We had a frosty, week-long impasse but have since reached a compromise. We will indeed have a tree but have been excused the turkey. Sprouts are in but Christmas pudding is out. Pigs in blankets are OK but mince pies are not. Furthermore, guests at the festive board will include both family and friends, and if I cook, I don’t wash up.
One thing we four agreed upon was the need for constant alcoholic refreshment, with fizz the first priority. None of us cares for Cava, and we’ve all gone off Prosecco. Crémant, however, produced across France using the champagne method, we find a delight. Favourites include Dopff au Moulin Crémant d’alsace Brut NV (£13.95, Wine Society) and Victorine de Chastenay Crémant de Bourgogne Brut NV (£16.99 if you mix six, Majestic).
We also lap up English fizz. It’s hard to pick a favourite, but keep an eye out for anything from Herbert Hall, Coates & Seely, Gusbourne, Ambriel and Breaky Bottom. Oh, and the best Méthode Cap Classiques (MCC) from South Africa are also remarkable value. Just try Graham Beck Chardonnay/pinot Noir MCC Brut NV (£10.99, Waitrose) if you don’t believe me. If you want pukka champagne, Majestic always has excellent deals, although I’ll probably head either for the excellent Champagne Geoffroy ‘Expression’ Brut NV (£40, Armit Wines) or dazzlingly, consistently fine Henri Chauvet Blanc de Noirs Brut NV (£29.95, Private Cellar).
As for whites, party wines I’ve got my eye on include the fresh and light 2021 Monte Schiavo Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (£7.99 if you mix six, Majestic); charming, peachy 2021 Domaine La Combe Saint-paul Viognier (£9.95; Stone, Vine & Sun); and enticingly citrusy 2021 Cono Sur Reserva Especial Riesling (£10, Tesco). For something more ‘grown up’ to enjoy with the feast itself, I suggest three fabulous Chardonnays: the astoundingly good-value 2020 Kumeu Village Hand Harvested Chardonnay (£13.90, Tanners) from New Zealand; and the subtle, elegant
We have reached a compromise – we will have a tree but have been excused the turkey
2020 Domaine Trouillet ‘Aux Chailloux’ Pouilly-fuissé 1er Cru (£26.99 if you mix six, Majestic) and creamy, honeyed 2018 Domaine Daniel Barraud Saint Véran ‘Les Pommards’ (£27.75, Lea & Sandeman), both from Burgundy. Party reds to consider include the rich, smooth 2019 Specially Selected Douro Reserva (£6.99, Aldi), daftly drinkable 2019 Tesco Finest Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (£8, Tesco) and juicily spicy 2021 Morrisons The Best Côtes du Rhône Villages (£8.25, Morrisons).
If you’re stuck with turkey, take the taste away with the light, elegant, lively 2019 Forrest Estate Central Otago Pinot Noir (£20.99, Adnams) from New Zealand or lusciously stylish 2020 Bird in Hand Syrah (£19.35, Bird in Hand) from Oz. If you’ve rib of beef or leg of lamb, try one of two soft, supple, Merlot-rich clarets from the excellent 2016 vintage: 2016 Clarendelle Rouge (£19.80, Hedonism) or 2016 Château La Fleur des Graves (£15.75, Corney & Barrow).
If you’re pushing the boat out, try the dark and silky 2016 Blason d’issan Margaux (£35, Morrisons) from Bordeaux or fabulously sophisticated 2017 Domaine Francois Gay & Fils Aloxe-corton (£42, Yapp Bros) from Burgundy. As you near meal’s end, don’t miss out on the richly sweet Argüeso 1822 Pedro Ximénez (£18, Amathus) or nutty, raisiny Cálem 10-Yearold Tawny Port (£26, Amathus). Finally, as your reward for getting through it all, indulge in the finest of all postprandials: Mentzendorff Kummel (£22.61 per 50cl, Drink Shop) and Delamain Pale & Dry XO Cognac (£85, Master of Malt). Hurrah! I’m feeling better already.