Brecon Beacons Fan y Big
Start/Finish 1
Lane near Tregaer, Llanfrynach
GR: SO071249
Park with care, making sure you do not block any gateways. Walk through gate up track towards Tir-hir. Cross stream in small wood and climb to end of track.
Turn R, following FP sign to 2 cross stile by gate. Follow faint path to L through trees onto open moor. Continue on grassy path past Bryn outcrop to where path levels out and follows edge of plateau, along Bwlch y Ddwyallt and then veering R to run along Craig Cwareli. Again veer R and eventually head N. Path descends a little then rises gently to Fan y Big summit.
Keep on path past stone 3 shelter, following spine of Cefn Cyff for 3.5km to edge of moor.
Pass gate onto stony track 4 and go left onto lane by Rhiwiau. Take signed FP over field on R to a rickety stile onto another lane. Turn R towards Pentwyn. Just before Pentwyn, take signed stony FP enclosed by hedges to new footbridge over Nant Menasgin stream.
After bridge, turn L on 5 wide path through woods. Path quickly veers R. Almost immediately keep L on narrower path to R of smaller stream and field edge. Emerge from wood and cross short stretch of field to lane. Turn L on lane to return to start.
removing layers as I marched uphill along a track to the stile onto the moor, then through a scatter of sparse oak woodland onto a broad green path flanked by russet bracken.
I enjoyed a late lunch leaning against the last rowan tree below the treeline, with the peaks already rearing up ahead. The mostly grassy path continued steeply, past the rocky nodule of Bryn, and along Gist Wen (White Chest), finally levelling out along Bwlch y Ddwyallt. Here it runs along the edge of an airy plateau that falls away precipitously to the north, then makes a right angle to follow the western escarpment along Craig Cwareli. The peaks stretched out enticingly in a sweeping row, but they were now beginning to take on the golden hue of late afternoon sunlight. Unless I was to borrow the wings of the raven croaking overhead, I would have to head downhill along Cefn Cyff.
After a break from the wind in a roofless stone shelter, I began my descent. Time was getting on, so I picked up speed, actually jogging along the easy path for long stretches, and spontaneously voicing a sort of vaguely Native American chant that seemed to make the descent easier. The sun was sinking, but this was exhilarating, and I only had easy open moorland path, a track, and a lane to traverse. Oh – and a final bit of path through the woods. Plus I had a torch and spare batteries. What could possibly go wrong?
By the time I crossed the Nant Menasgin by an excellent new footbridge, light was fading. I turned on my trusty torch to check the map. Almost immediately the batteries died. No matter; I soon had a brand new pack installed. Now the moment of truth … the torch didn’t work. I tried the batteries in various other combinations, using up valuable twilight, before giving up and turning on my phone torch.
It’s quite hard to find a path through dense woodland in the dark with only a mobile phone. I’ll spare you the bit about getting stuck in an impenetrable holly thicket. Suffice it to say that when I finally found the way out I was quite relieved. I’d say I was guided by my personal owl spirit, or even the stars just visible through the treetops, but that would be fanciful. Thank you, Ordnance Survey!