The better backpacking guide
In this four-part series with expert tentmaker Hilleberg, our equipment editor and long-distance walking legend Chris Townsend explains key aspects of backpacking. In this second instalment, he looks at top tips and techniques for pitching tents in challenging conditions, with added input from Hilleberg on how this advice relates to their models PART TWO: HOW TO PITCH TENTS IN COLD AND HOSTILE WEATHER
TENTS, as opposed to lighter options like tarps or bivvies, really come into their own – and justify the effort of carrying them – when the weather turns stormy.
The way you pitch a tent is often key to how secure it will feel. It can be very comforting to shelter in the wilds within a tent you know is sturdy while rain, wind or snow whirl outside. Conversely, being inside a poorly pitched tent that seems at risk of collapsing can be a very unnerving experience and guarantees a poor night’s sleep.
To maximise a tent’s storm-worthiness there are a number of things you can do. The first thing you should ensure is that you are familiar and well-practised at pitching the tent so you do it quickly and efficiently in poor conditions. Inside a howling storm is not the best time to be fumbling with your shelter!
PITCH SELECTION
In windy weather, always look for sheltered terrain; but sometimes an exposed pitch may be the only option there is. Often, though, there are options; even a gentle bank or a pile of rocks can help cut the wind. Passing by that lovely hillside pitch and continuing downhill to a less windy spot is often worthwhile.
But in heavy rain, be wary of damp hollows; these could fill with water. In woods, look up. Camping under a dead branch is a bad idea.
PITCHING
To stop your tent blowing away in strong winds, peg down one end securely before inserting any poles or laying the tent out. In extremely strong winds kneel on the tent to hold it down while you peg out one end (it can also help to loosely peg down the other end) before inserting the poles, and then pull out the other end and properly peg it down. With tents that clip onto the poles, such as many dome tents, it’s usually possible to peg out the tent and insert the pole ends before attaching the clips. Never pitch a tunnel tent side-on to the wind. With other designs, the door should be away from the wind.
Hilleberg adds: For Hilleberg tunnel tents, make sure to get a good stretch of the ridge line when you pull out and peg the tent. One school of thought says to pitch tunnel tents with the rear into the wind, but for our one-entrance tunnel tents, like the Nallo, Nammatj and Anjan, we recommend pitching the vestibule end into the wind; this keeps the rear wall from pushing down on your feet and increases ventilation and strength. On two-entrance tunnel models like our
Kaitum, Keron and Helags, with a vestibule at either end, position either end into the wind. On any tent, make sure doors are closed before pitching. A good habit: close the doors every time you take down the tent so it’s ready for next time.
PEGS AND GUYLINES
Pegs should go in at about a 45-degree angle (leaning away from the tent) right up to their heads. Carry a selection of different pegs for different ground conditions – thin ones for stony and hard ground, wide ones for soft ground – so you can do this. If pegs really won’t go fully into the ground, pegging loops and guylines should be looped round the peg at ground level – higher up and they could lever the peg out. Place guylines so they support the tent’s structure. All guylines should be pegged out and tightened, set as
long as possible – but avoid overtightening the lines, as this could deform the tent structure. I do this even if it’s calm – because the wind may pick up during the night.
Hilleberg adds: On tunnel tents, we recommend the guylines at the ends of the tent should be set at a 45° angle to the tent, whilst middle guylines should be in line with the poles. Carry extra guyline cord. You can use it to lengthen lines on uneven terrain or add more guylines if needed. In conditions where you might need to put a stone on a guyline or peg point to add holding power, add an extra loop of cord to the line or peg point and put the stone on that so the stone won’t damage the actual guyline, peg point or tent wall.
PITCHING IN SNOW
In soft snow, a platform should be stamped out then levelled for the tent. Special extrawide and extra-long pegs can be carried for snow. In soft snow these should be buried horizontally with guylines looped round them (a ‘deadman anchor’). Extra cord may be needed for pegging points round the edge of the flysheet for this. Ordinary pegs can be buried like this too. Stamp down on the snow above the peg to harden it – but be aware that they’ll freeze in place and you may need an ice axe to dig them out the next day. Ice axes, trekking poles and skis can be used as pegs in snow too.
Hilleberg adds: Very deep snow is rare in the UK, but in such conditions, on exposed terrain, we recommend digging your tent down to about half the height of the tent. Throw loose snow onto the side walls to help keep the wind from getting under them. Avoid building snow walls, as these can actually channel wind onto the tent or fall onto the tent. Hilleberg Snow and Sand pegs come with an attached line and hook so they are easy to attach to the guyline or peg points, and so they can be buried deep for optimal holding power.
SECURING GEAR
Before pitching the tent, ensure all other gear is in your pack and the lid is shut so it stays dry and doesn’t blow away. Tent stuffsacks should be pushed into garment or pack pockets to stop them being lost to the wind.
FINAL CHECKS
Before getting inside the tent, check all pegging points are secure and tighten the guylines. In rain it’s worth getting out last thing before sleep to tighten everything again – some tent fabrics stretch when wet. If it’s snowy, knock any snow off the tent. In very heavy snow you may need to do this during the night too.
KEEPING THE INNER DRY
Fill up water containers and do any other outside chores before entering the tent. If your outer clothing is wet, strip this off in the porch. A small sitmat is useful for kneeling on to do this. The idea is to keep any damp gear out of the inner tent so it stays as dry as possible.
Hilleberg adds: On all Hilleberg tents, you can disconnect a corner (or more) of the inner tent from the outer tent to create extra ‘vestibule’ space. By disconnecting most of the inner tent attachment points and pushing the inner tent back, you create a great space for people to gather out of the storm without getting the inner tent wet. In addition, in truly wet conditions, when you take down your tent you can disconnect the inner tent completely and store it separately in your pack. When you reach the next camp spot, set up the outer tent as you would the complete tent, then climb into the protected space and reattach the still-dry inner tent.