Alan Rowan has to give way to a mighty wind
THE three Ardverikie Munros in Glen Spean are usually climbed together in a horseshoe circuit, but we knew as soon as we reached lovely Lochan na h-Earba that the day would have to be cut short.
The blue sky and the golden sands on the shore were full of false spring promise; the clouds had been zipping along at a fair rate since we had set off and we were now feeling the force of the wind as we watched white horses galloping down the water.
If the north-easterlies were as strong as this at the water’s edge, then trying to traverse three high tops would be inadvisable. We quickly decided on
adjusting our route to make the best of the day.
The most sensible option was Beinn a’ Chlachair, taking the path up to the Bealach Leamhain and then heading south-west across the plateau with the wind at our backs.
It’s an ideal route for those needing a shorter day; staying on the path all the way to the col makes lighter work for an ascent than leaving it earlier for a pathless trudge to the shoulder of Coire Mor a’ Chlachair over dense vegetated ground. There’s also a certain amount of protection from the worst of the wind at the col, and in the steep climb up the heather and boulder slope where the rocks offer plenty of shelter.
The wind had done little more than ruffle our hair as we followed the run of the Allt Coire Pitridh east, but we got a reminder of its ferocity when we reached the junction of paths between Geal Charn and Beinn a’ Chlachair.
The view dropping to the east revealed Loch a’ Bhealaich Leamhain, a body of water that seems to spend most of the time in shadow, an undisturbed, dark blue pool. We turned right and picked our way between the rocks, but every so often we were knocked off our feet by a rogue gust. With the end of the ascent in sight, we decided to tuck in to have a bite to eat and make any necessary kit adjustments before venturing out again.
As soon we hit the plateau, the wind was on us but now it proved a boon, driving us along in our chosen direction.
We passed over the first, almost imperceptible, top; and we could see our target, the giant cairn sitting on the skyline, dead ahead.
Behind us, the Alders were now in full view stretched out over the horizon, their faces streaked with white, their corries still holding more substantial patches.
We stumbled over the boulder field and took advantage of the spread of the big cairn to get out of the wind and enjoy some sightseeing.
The descent was down the right arm of the corrie, our progress accompanied by dramatic views of the huge wall opposite. As the corrie widened, the going became softer and we were soon at the stepping stones over the stream to rejoin the inward route.