Paul Richardson combines moor tops with wooded valleys
TUCKED INTO the Eller Beck valley, Goathland is dominated on all sides by the open heather moorlands of the North York Moors. Today we were going to mix and match the rugged moor tops with the tranquil valleybottom woodland streams. Or so we thought. The best laid plans and all that.
Leaving Goathland village, ascending the slope of Moss Rigg, we decided we’d take our time and enjoy extended breaks, watch for wildlife and generally ditch any ‘let’s crack on’ approach. Blue skies and a gentle breeze provided perfect walking conditions, so why rush.
After rounding the eastern bank of The Tarn, a series of small cairns kept
us on track as we skirted the lower slope of Two Howes on our way to Simon Howe. We also caught our first glimpse of Fylingdales Early Warning Station in the distance ahead.
Picture postcard conditions met us at the standing stones and pile of stones at Simon Howe, with views across the lush, flowering heather of Goathland Moor, and beyond the Wheeldale valley to the plateau of Wheeldale Moor. Our strategy of long food and drink breaks was bearing fruit.
The 40-mile (65km) Lyke Wake Walk route passes Simon Howe, and we turned right to follow its path through the carpet of heather over Howl Moor, eventually dropping into the Wheeldale valley.
Later on we would come to Mallyan Spout, so we hoped the previous day’s rain would provide decent flow over the falls; but we had to cross Wheeldale Beck via stepping stones, so we didn’t want too much water coming down.
The water just covered a few stones, and a comfortable crossing led us to an ascent of Skivick Crag via dense bracken, on the way to the Roman road on the eastern flank of Wheeldale Moor. It probably isn’t really a Roman road, but this didn’t detract from the splendour and blue skies as we traversed the valley side and a return to the valley bottom.
Another relaxed tea break on the bank of Wheeldale Beck near Hazel Head Woods, with the gurgling of the rushing stream the only sound to be heard. A few fields later and we were at the start of the stream side path along West Beck leading to Mallyan Spout. In the past, I’ve always taken the diversion route to avoid erosion, as advised on the clearly mapped notices near the road bridge stile. But today, I wanted to explore the stream.
I don’t want to appear hypocritical and suggest that other people shouldn’t do what I did – but I would really advise anyone to take the diversion route: it’s easy going and easy to find. The streamside path was very muddy with constant slippery clambering and lots of grasping tree roots to avoid a fall. So much for tranquil valleybottom woodland streams.
Blathered in mud, we gratefully reached Mallyan Spout, which was in good flow, so we had a well-deserved rest near the foot of the waterfall before returning to Goathland. We agreed that the ‘no rushing’ strategy was a winner, and following the recommended diversion would have made the route absolutely perfect.