Route guide Tryfan North Face
Tryfan’s classic scramble is the first in our new series of detailed, illustrated mountain route profiles. Get your hands on the rock!
IF YOU’VE REACHED that point as a hillwalker when you feel the urge to tackle steeper and rockier terrain, then there can be no better way to start scrambling than on the ultra-classic North Ridge of Tryfan. This blade-shaped fin of rock guards the entrance of the Ogwen Valley in Snowdonia, laying down a challenge that
ambitious hillwalkers find impossible to ignore.
Its North Ridge may look fearsome, but this is a Grade 1 (easy) scramble within the abilities of most fit walkers, and it’s less extreme than it looks. Expect sustained hands-on-rock clambering and thrilling situations on a dramatic ridge.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
START/FINISH: Milestone Buttress 1 car park on the A5 between Capel Curig and Bethesda GR: SH663603
The climb begins at the car park directly beneath the North Ridge’s western flank. Above, the ridge is foreshortened and only the first part of the ascent can be seen, visible as a sprawling prow of heathery rock. Follow an obvious path uphill beside a stone wall, keeping left of the steep Milestone Buttress. Ascend a bouldery shelf beneath steeper ground to reach a shoulder. Many lines are possible on the lower, broader section of the North Ridge. Look out for the tell-tale signs of polished holds, indicating an established route. Take care not to veer too far left or right, which may lead to more serious terrain. As you climb, the ridge gradually narrows.
The Cannon Stone (SH665598) is the route’s 2 first landmark, although it isn’t obvious from every possible line. This unmistakeable jutting slab of rock makes an irresistible photo op! The ridge is not too steep at this point but soon grows narrower, and the route ahead becomes obvious. You’ll arrive at a large, flat platform beneath a prominent nose of rock – which is where things get really exciting.
3 The Nose looks intimidating but the best route tackles it straight up the middle. Climb the steep rock, which is a little exposed in places but has plenty of reassuringly big holds. The views looking back down the ridge from here are sensational. Above the Nose, you’ll arrive at a minor rock tower that is best not climbed directly (obvious lines bypass it to the right). On the other side is a rocky descent and a step across a notch that requires care. Here you’ll get your first clear view of the final ascent to the summit.
4 Descend slightly to the bouldery bwlch (col) just north of the summit, then climb the last few metres on a rocky path with no real scrambling. The Central Summit, when you reach it, is unmistakable. At 917m (3010ft), this pinnacled top has eagle’s-eye views over the entire Ogwen Valley, and is crowned by the famous Adam and Eve stones – two monoliths that, tradition has it, can grant the ‘Freedom of Tryfan’ if you jump between them (strictly optional!).
Continue in the same direction to the smaller 5 South Peak, then descend the South Ridge – also a Grade 1 scramble, but much shorter and easier than the North Ridge, and not much more than a bouldery walk. The way is generally obvious as it skirts west around the Far South Peak.
Descend to Bwlch Tryfan, a broad grassy col 6 marked by a stone wall, and take the obvious path heading NW into Cwm Bochlwyd.
At Llyn Bochlwyd (good views back to Glyder 7 Fach) cross the stream outflow and descend steeply on the west bank of the Nant Bochlwyd, then take the path heading NE across grassy slopes back to the road.
August 2021 The Great Outdoors