Fiona Barltrop enjoys big skies and sweeping views

WINCHESTER marks the western end of the South Downs Way (as well as the South Downs National Park), but the city is soon escaped as you head east along the trail. Before long you reach the first of many fine viewpoints, Cheesefoot Head, which overlooks a large natural amphitheatre known as the Matterley Bowl. The long-established, familyowned Matterley Estate where the bowl is situated is primarily a dairy and arable farm, but has diversified in recent years, hosting a number of events, notably big open-air music festivals, in the bowl. Fortunately – at least if, like me, you prefer peace and quiet in the