The Carneddau
Snowdon, Tryfan and the Glyderau might attract the plaudits, but the lesserfrequented Carneddau offer similarly superlative hiking, argues James Forrest
Photography: James Forrest
IF YOU NEED your fix of Snowdonia ruggedness but want to bypass the crowds flocking to Tryfan, the Glyderau and Snowdon’s serrated Crib Goch ridge, the Carneddau range is a wise choice. That’s not to say it’ll be completely empty, but you certainly won’t be queuing for the summit – and, despite being quieter than its more famous neighbours, the Carneddau range still delivers world-class scenery. You’ll be treated to stunning views of Tryfan’s distinctive pyramidal profile, while the ridges and high peaks have an unforgiving – yet rewarding – ambiance. Carnedd Llewelyn, Wales’ third highest mountain, is probably the highlight. Bulky and knurled, it’s a fitting rival to Snowdon.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
START/FINISH: the 1 westernmost parking layby off the A5 next to Llyn Ogwen SH656602
Head west along the A5. Pass Ogwen Cottage and, after the road bears northwest over a bridge, turn right at a fingerpost sign. Fork left and scramble north-northeast over rocky outcrops. Emerge onto a clear path with sections of stone pitching. The ascent ahead is steep with some easy scrambling. Cross a flat, boggy section on stepping stones before resuming the steep climb. Take the trod ahead over loose scree, aiming to the left of a huge crag. Continue ascending just east of north and scramble up a gully-like groove between jagged rocks, negotiating a few awkward rocky steps. Emerge to gentler terrain at the 750m contour line. Ascend to the right of the western cliffs, maintaining the same bearing. Pick a line over boulderfields, where the path is intermittent. Pass a wind shelter at 960m and veer right over grassier slopes to arrive at the summit.
SH655619 Head north-west to a cairn 2 and pick up a clear path bearing north for the ridge. Descend briefly before climbing again over undulating terrain.
Veer north-east and climb over boulders to Carnedd Fach. Continue north-east over rockier ground on an intermittent path. Pass two cairns close together and beyond to a prominent wind shelter, before emerging at
the Carnedd Dafydd summit. Bear east following a series of cairns and descend gently to the right of the Ysgolion Duon cliffs. Veer away from the cliffs, aiming north-east over boulder-strewn slopes for the narrow ridge to Bwlch Cyfryw-drum. A clear path guides the way over the crest of the undulating ridge, which merges into the bulk of the mountain. Continue to climb north, heading parallel to an old drystone wall, and arrive at a wind shelter. Turn left momentarily to the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn.
SH683643 Head to the left of the wind 3 shelter and descend south-east to a large cairn. The steep, winding path bears east initially before turning south-east again. At a path junction, turn left over higher ground to a cairned top. Descend gently south-east and south. Beyond a final hump, negotiate a tricky section of rocky scrambling down towards the narrow spine of land at Bwlch Eryl Farchog. A clear trod heads south-east over the ridge. At the end of the ridge, a cone-shaped climb lies ahead. The ascent requires a touch of easy scrambling but the best line is well-defined. Arrive at the grassy summit of Pen yr Helgi Du. SH698630 Descend south over rounded, 4 gentle slopes. Pass to the left of a small tarn and continue easily down on a clear, grassy path. Go through a gap in a drystone wall and aim south for a footbridge over the weir channel. Go over a ladder stile, cross the bridge and turn right. Head south-west on an intermittent trod, bearing to the right of a cluster of sheepfolds. Cross a ladder stile and descend south-west, guided by two white-tipped marker posts. Reach a track and turn right. Beyond a cattle grid, cross the road and go over a ladder stile onto a path ahead. Cross a bridge and another ladder stile before turning right onto a lane. Go through a gate, bear right and walk through the campsite at Gwern Gof Isaf. Continue west on a wide track running parallel to the A5. Cross the footbridge over Nant Gwern y Gof and pass to the left of Gwern Gof Uchaf. Go through a series of gates and veer right to emerge at the road. Turn left along the pavement back to the car park.