Cadair Berwyn, North Wales
It’s not all boring in the Berwyns. James Forrest finds an excellent high-level ridge walk in this much maligned range – and learns of an out-of-this-world story too.
The Berwyns are an often-ignored mountain range of high moorland east of Bala, lying just outside Snowdonia National Park. Critics label them the ‘Boring Berwyns’, complaining that the rounded, grassy hills – many of which are pathless and covered in thick, energy-sapping heather – lack the drama and excitement of the rest of North Wales. But the Berwyns have a quiet, remote, tranquil appeal – and they are the ideal place to escape the crowds. On days when Snowdonia’s hot spots will be teeming with tourists, you might not see another human all day in the Berwyns.
In fact, you might be more likely to encounter an extra-terrestrial than a fellow human hiker! In January 1974 loud bangs and bright lights were observed over Cadair Berwyn, an 830m peak in the heart of the range. Eye-witness accounts told of a ‘huge ball glowing’ and a ‘large perfect circle’ over the mountain. Was it a UFO crash subsequently covered up by the government? Or an earthquake combined with a meteor shower, as per official statements? The so-called ‘Roswelsh Incident’ was perhaps the strangest moment in the history of Britain’s mountains.
This route avoids the tougher, bleaker northern and western sections, and sticks to the central area. Here the heather relents, good paths abide and an enjoyable high-level horseshoe walk is possible, bagging Cadair Bronwen, Cadair Berwyn and Moel Sych: the best day walk in the Berwyns.