The Great Outdoors (UK)

JAGGERS’ REVENGE

Francesca Donovan visits three drinking dens for breakfast, lunch and dinner on a Peak District packhorse pub marathon

-

The landscape of the first national park is lined with packhorse routes, signposted by no-longer-straight standing stones and old bridges just wide enough for a pony carrying panniers of salt or silks strapped to its side. Yet more public houses were opened to provide sustenance and shelter to packhorsem­en – or jaggers – making their way from town to town trading. This was often the side-hustle of local farmers during tough seasons, and they were long days of slow progress for both man and beast. The most well-worn packhorse routes run across the Peaks between Manchester and Sheffield.

I plotted my own route following in footsteps of these men and women who carted their wares in centuries gone by.

For myself, I have nowhere in particular to be except the pub. Three pubs, to be precise. As I’m not beholden by trading schedules or weighed down with goods – merely laden with Fruit Pastilles in preparatio­n for a 20-mile day – I opted to head north to south a linear route that would take me from the Dark Peak to the White Peak. It’s my very own Three Packhorses Challenge in the Peak District.

We set out at 7am in the shadow of Stanage Edge to the toll of St Michael’s Church bells, the grave site of Robin Hood’s beloved Little John just a stone’s throw away from The Scotsman’s Pack. The pub gets its name from those who travelled from the Highlands to sell tweeds to local farmers. After a quick coffee in the pretty beer garden – it was too early to start on the stronger stuff – we initially followed the Derwent Valley Trail. The woodland sheltered us from soft morning rain and my trusty dog Maus paddled in the river. After crossing the 17th-Century bridge at Froggatt – a likely pit stop for the packhorses of yore – it wasn’t long until we started our first ascent of the day through the quaint town of Stoney Middleton, down Coombes Dale and out onto the open hills to enjoy a big sky as slivers of blue began to peek from behind the clouds.

This part of the packhorse route connects the old plague village of Eyam to Little Longstone, passing still-farmed fields, curious cows and homemade jam honesty boxes. Here, an opera-singing barman at The Packhorse Inn welcomed our muddy boots and paws. With the clock striking noon, it was time to sample the local taps. A bitter and a Helles, please. The newly refurbishe­d beer garden is sheltered but in harmony with the elements, the ideal mix of rustic, familiar and just a little bit quirky, like the interior, which boasts open fires and old ranges. Trying not to study the specials board too closely, we forged on past a couple of grazing Fell ponies towards Monsal Head, before sitting on viewpoint benches and nursing our disappoint­ing packed lunch sandwiches. With 10 miles to go, we consoled ourselves with the thought that a rich, locally sourced duck confit might’ve weighed us down.

Crossing the Monsal Trail viaduct, we walked deeper into the Wye Valley, grateful to be rambling without the pressures of earning a crust, as we headed down-dale once again. Our final ascent of the day took us towards the town of Flagg where, you guessed it, we started to flag a little. With only five miles to go we briefly joined the Pennine Bridleway and High Peak Trail after crossing the Roman road we now call the A515. Steady hillwalkin­g brought us to our penultimat­e stop of the day, High Wheeldon. It’s one of my favourite trig points in the Peaks and I simply

couldn’t miss it. Our end point lies at its foot, and the hill offers marvellous views over to The Dragon’s Back – otherwise known as Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill. We’d truly arrived in the White Peak.

We fairly skipped down to The Packhorse Inn in Crowdecote, thinking of pies, curries, burgers and fish and chips. The pub dates back to the 16th Century, when it served as a stop-off point on the packhorse trail from Newcastle-under-Lyme to Hassop.

The landlords Kris and Hannah have honoured this rich history, with a range of local ales, restored stable block seating and blacksmith­s’ tools adorning the walls.

God rays seeped through end-of-day clouds as we drank and ate greedily in the beer garden. Maus drank from the ‘Dog Beer’ keg and we all stretched our legs, thinking how lucky we were to have made this journey for pleasure, rather than necessity.

■ Thirst on? The walk can also be extended to take in the Packhorse Inn, Hayfield, heading east down Jacob’s Ladder to cross the much-photograph­ed packhorse bridge at its base. Along this traditiona­l packhorse route, you’ll also find The Nag's Head in Edale at the start of the Pennine Way. Both also deserve an honourable mention for their good local fare, ambience and taps.

 ?? ??
 ?? ??
 ?? ??
 ?? ?? [previous spread] The Wasdale Head Inn: the epitome of a walkers’ pub [this spread, clockwise from top left] After the sandwich stop at Monsal Head; The Scotman's Pack at Hathersage; A classic Derbyshire Dales scene en route to Little Longstone; Maus's first beer; The Packhorse Inn, Little Longstone
[previous spread] The Wasdale Head Inn: the epitome of a walkers’ pub [this spread, clockwise from top left] After the sandwich stop at Monsal Head; The Scotman's Pack at Hathersage; A classic Derbyshire Dales scene en route to Little Longstone; Maus's first beer; The Packhorse Inn, Little Longstone
 ?? ??
 ?? ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom